Capo Testa – La Turri

Area: Gallura

Capo Testa – La Turri

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Multipitch trad

Leaning walls

Sun all day

25 min approach

Exposed to all winds

Winter crag

1
6
2
0
2
2
2
1
1
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
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18 routes
 in total

Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Fontana, Gondola e Mozzanica

Year

1976

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

3

Pitches grades

3, 3, 3

Pitches lenght


Created by

Lecis

Year

1993

Last re-bolted

Equipment


Created by

Lecis

Year

1993

Last re-bolted

Equipment


Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Demichela e Merizzi

Year

1980

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

3

Pitches grades

3, 5a, 4

Pitches lenght

ASCENTS / BROWSE ALL

schmidni
4 Aprile, 2023
★★★★
Note: Pleasant route over beautiful rock features. The slab at the beginning can be easily avoided by traversing into the route higher up from the right.

pilgrim.of.autumn
11 Giugno, 2021
★★★


Created by

Balata e Lecis

Year

1994

Last re-bolted

Equipment


Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Anghileri e Merizzi

Year

1980

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

4

Pitches grades

V, V+, VI, V

Pitches lenght

ASCENTS / BROWSE ALL

micguf@gmail.com
17 Agosto, 2018
★★★★★

micguf@gmail.com
★★★★★

MalcuPinna
★★★★★


Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Azzalea e Beuchod

Year

1981

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

3

Pitches grades

IV+, IV, III

Pitches lenght

ASCENTS / BROWSE ALL

EGMUTTI_72
15 Settembre, 2022
★★★★
Note: Via impegnativa e a tratti improteggibie nonostante la valutazione con gradi facili.

MalcuPinna
★★★★


Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Falconi e Lecis

Year

1995

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

3

Pitches grades

V, 6b, 6a+, 6b

Pitches lenght

NOTE: First pitch needs large a few large friends (size 1 to 3 BD). The rest is mostly well equipped, becoming rusty (2020 update)

ASCENTS / BROWSE ALL

Ghetto
8 Ottobre, 2022
★★★★
Note: Access through the community shelters you can see various cracks on the left of the wall starting from the top of some boulders just off the main wall . First pitch hard to protect but fairly straight forward following a crack and slightly left. From the first belay, 1 bolted spit and green cordelette in an hourglass hold. Second pitch: the start is probably the crux continuing into fine slab climbing with a few features and a few hollow holds on the left hand side but still there when we ascended, slight runout at the end. Second belay on a nice ledge. Third pitch on the slabby prow doesn't have many features but extremely fine slab climbing on exceptional granite (even if a bit dirty with lychens) . Third pitch is the longest and probably the most demanding in terms of head game. Third belay at the top of the ridge. Forth pitch has a slabby start but fairly straightforward and a mantle up not very edgy holds but still the rockover is not to bad if you can find good feet, avoid lychens on the left continue right up the pink slab onto a five meters ronuout to the top on slabby terrain. Abseil on the line of the 6cs (left) on the slide (which looked amazing and abseiling down even probably easier?) Regardless the line on the right was truly beautiful but you have to like slab and not having much to use as holds. The grades from my point of view are all quite on the top range especially if one is not used to slab climbing. Definitely a line I would recommend!

paologiunio
2 Luglio, 2022
★★★★★

MalcuPinna
★★★★★


Multi-pitch TRAD

Obligatory

n. of pitches

4

Pitches grades

V, 6b, 6c, 5c

Pitches lenght

NOTE: Goes left after the second pitch of Il Greco

ASCENTS / BROWSE ALL

paologiunio
2 Luglio, 2022
★★★★★

MalcuPinna
★★★★★


Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Campioli e Ferroni

Year

1977

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

4

Pitches grades

5c, 6a+, 5b, 4

Pitches lenght

NOTE: Anchoring points and hard bits are bolted. Follows the crack entirely. May be extremely rusty

ASCENTS / BROWSE ALL

paologiunio
25 Giugno, 2023
★★★★★
Note: No bolts in place except for the first anchor. Do not stop at the first anchor (bolt + timeglass, route Il Greco), but higher up (one bolt only or good hand crack to build the belay, good ledge). It's preferable to have 2x#3,#4,#5 BD and 1x#6 for L2. BD #6 is also needed. Small friends (smaller than #0.75 BD) almost useless. L3 and L4 can hardly be protected (squeezed chemeney). After L2 it seems possible to get on L3 and L4 of Il Greco (bolted) thus skipping the last two exposed pitches. The last two pitches can be combined in a single one (~50 m long).

micguf@gmail.com
5 Agosto, 2022
★★★★★

MalcuPinna
★★★★


Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Anghileri e Merlizzi

Year

1980

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

4

Pitches grades

5a, 5b, 4, 5a

Pitches lenght

ASCENTS / BROWSE ALL

paologiunio
10 Giugno, 2023
★★★★★

micguf@gmail.com
5 Giugno, 2021
★★★★★

micguf@gmail.com

MalcuPinna
★★★★★


Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Fontana e Mozzanica

Year

1977

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

4

Pitches grades

4, 3, 4, 5a

Pitches lenght

ASCENTS / BROWSE ALL

MalcuPinna
★★★


Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Campioli e Fossa

Year

1977

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

4

Pitches grades

Pitches lenght


Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Masa

Year

1978

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

4

Pitches grades

Pitches lenght


Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Marrosu

Year

1999

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

2

Pitches grades

5a, 5a

Pitches lenght


Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Brevini e Merizzi

Year

1983

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

3

Pitches grades

4, 5a, 6a+

Pitches lenght


Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Merizzi e Panatti

Year

1980

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

11

Pitches grades

Pitches lenght


Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Fontana, d'Ercole e Mozzanica

Year

1975

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

11

Pitches grades

3, 4, 4, 4, 3, 4, 4, 3, 4, 4, 4

Pitches lenght


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