Cammino del capo
Sector: Capo Testa – La Turri
Position
Grade
Height
Type
07
4
120 m
Multi Pitch - TRAD
Bolted by: Azzalea e Beuchod
Year: 1981
Re-bolted:
Equipment:
Notes:
questa div sarà nascosta
ALL PREVIOUS ASCENTS
Note: Higly recomanded big Gear up to 6BD maybe 7 could be used too
Note: The route is much more difficult than it seems! There is a completely unprotected chimney at the last pitch. Other route descriptions refer to it as a 12 m unprotected chimney. As there are ledges below it, the fall can result in severe injuries. We decided to abseil down from that point, leaving a nut and going down to the second anchor (fixed sling). From there, using a rope of 40 m gets you down to a piton, a couple of metres above the first anchor (fixed sling). It was not difficult to get to the first anchor while being on the rope all time. Then, we abseiled down to the beginning of the route. On ukclimbing website this route is graded as UIAA V+, which is a fair assessment of its difficulty, in my opinion. Overall, I wouldn't recommend this route due to highly unsafe last pitch.
Note: Via impegnativa e a tratti improteggibie nonostante la valutazione con gradi facili.
