Il greco

Il greco

Sector: Capo Testa – La Turri

Position
Grade
Height
Type
08
6b
120 m
Multi Pitch - TRAD

Bolted by: Falconi e Lecis
Year: 1995
Re-bolted:
Equipment:
Notes: First pitch needs large a few large friends (size 1 to 3 BD). The rest is mostly well equipped, becoming rusty (2020 update)

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ALL PREVIOUS ASCENTS

8 October, 2023
★★★★

8 October, 2022
★★★★
Note: Access through the community shelters you can see various cracks on the left of the wall starting from the top of some boulders just off the main wall . First pitch hard to protect but fairly straight forward following a crack and slightly left. From the first belay, 1 bolted spit and green cordelette in an hourglass hold. Second pitch: the start is probably the crux continuing into fine slab climbing with a few features and a few hollow holds on the left hand side but still there when we ascended, slight runout at the end. Second belay on a nice ledge. Third pitch on the slabby prow doesn't have many features but extremely fine slab climbing on exceptional granite (even if a bit dirty with lychens) . Third pitch is the longest and probably the most demanding in terms of head game. Third belay at the top of the ridge. Forth pitch has a slabby start but fairly straightforward and a mantle up not very edgy holds but still the rockover is not to bad if you can find good feet, avoid lychens on the left continue right up the pink slab onto a five meters ronuout to the top on slabby terrain. Abseil on the line of the 6cs (left) on the slide (which looked amazing and abseiling down even probably easier?) Regardless the line on the right was truly beautiful but you have to like slab and not having much to use as holds. The grades from my point of view are all quite on the top range especially if one is not used to slab climbing. Definitely a line I would recommend!

2 July, 2022
★★★★★

★★★★★

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