Rock climbing in Gallura

Climbing in Gallura is a must for all trad climbing lovers. Starting from the eighties, many alpinists climbed the best granite walls of Gallura using friends and nuts only. Therefore, most of Gallura is now devoted to trad climbing and all local climbers agree in keeping it as such. In effect, at the current moment, there is only one bolted crag: Monte Tuvu.

In addition, the hills of Gallura have plenty of granite boulders. Many boulders are clean and easily accessible, such as the park in Arzachena. Apart from the bouldering areas in this guide, Gallura has enormous potential for bouldering. The only pity is that the summer heat makes it impossible to access most of the areas.

Where is Gallura located?

Gallura is the northeast part of Sardinia, spanning from the granite hills in San Pantaleo to the sea cliffs at Capo Testa. The highest mountain in Gallura is the Limbara, with two small but lovely climbing sectors. Another high mountain, strange to say, is an island off the east coast. Tavolara rises from the sea near Olbia and is home to nearly 40 multi-pitches.

What’s best climbing in Gallura during the summer?

All the trad climbing sectors in Gallura are exposed to the sun. Therefore, winter is the best season to climb them. However, the routes in Punta Sa Berritta, at 1300 meters above sea level, can be climbed in the summer too, if starting early in the morning.

Monte Tuvu, the only sport sector, is the best destination for summer climbing in north Sardinia. It is exposed northwest and the sun gets there only late in the day.

What are the best multi-pitches in Gallura?

It may sound insincere, but all multi-pitches in Gallura are fantastic. On the seaside, all the routes at Cala di l’ea and La Turri are awesome. Moving inland the pillars at San Pantaleo and the walls of Punta Cugnana are a must for trad passionate. Although rusty, also the bolted Pocahontas at Monte Pulchiana is a fantastic route.