rock climbing in ogliastra


Rock climbing in Ogliastra

Seaside granite walls and high limestone mountains, climbing in Ogliastra suits all climbers’ palates.

Ogliastra is a large area embracing the center-east coast of Sardinia. It extends over 50 kilometres along the coast south of Baunei and reaches the mountains over Ulassai. It is so big that it overlaps with the areas Supramonte, Baunei, and Ulassai. However, those crags are separated for order’s sake.

On northern end of Ogliastra we find Lucertole al sole and other granite crags in Talana and Lotzorai. On the southern end is Passaggio per Chitur and two more climbing sectors bolted on the limestone walls of Quirra. Away from the sea, in the mountains of Ussassai, there are also four interesting sectors such as Lost and Guglie in the forest of Montarbu. They benefit from the elevation and the forests, becoming a popular summer destination.


What are the best climbing locations in Oliastra?

There are many beautiful little crags in Oligastra, such as L’isola che non c’è and Rodeo. Anyhow, there is one that excels for the quality of the routes and the beauty of the location. This is Jurassic Park, a massive granite wall on a remote location along the coast. It counts a little more than 10 routes, but each one of them is an unforgettable journey on large and clear granite cracks. The most famous route is Dillosauro, which climbs a small pillar sprouting halfway from the main crag.


Are there crags for climbing in Ogliastra during the summer?

The best summer crags in Ogliastra hide in the mountains. The absolute best is probably Lost, followed by Praidas and Monte Tonneri.  Even if close to the sea, you may approach also the sector Mutanda, but only in the afternoon!

Unfortunately, forget climbing in Quirra and Jurassic Park in the summer, as it is unbearably hot.


Where are the best multi-pitches in Ogliastra?

As mentioned above, Jurassic Park is probably the best and most fascinating climbing sector in Ogliastra. Although it has just over 10 multi-pitch routes and they are all fantastic. Another choice is Guglie, in the forests at about 700 meters above sea level.

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