Il collo dell’Ortelli
Sector: Capo Testa – La Turri
Position
Grade
Height
Type
10
6a+
120 m
Multi Pitch - TRAD
Bolted by: Campioli e Ferroni
Year: 1977
Re-bolted:
Equipment:
Notes: Anchoring points and hard bits are bolted. Follows the crack entirely. May be extremely rusty
questa div sarà nascosta
ALL PREVIOUS ASCENTS
Note: Very nice route, off width, cracks, slabs, but mostly cracks. No bolts in place (apart the first belay), but you can belay on the anchor of Il greco (on the left). We did not do the 4th pitch, exposed. The 3rd pitch is incredible ! For the 2nd pitch,we took the crack on the left (and not the main diedre) : there is a very rusty bolt before the slab part (very short pitch if you belay on the left with "Il Greco" belay on good bolts).
Note: No bolts in place except for the first anchor. Do not stop at the first anchor (bolt + timeglass, route Il Greco), but higher up (one bolt only or good hand crack to build the belay, good ledge). It's preferable to have 2x#3,#4,#5 BD and 1x#6 for L2. BD #6 is also needed. Small friends (smaller than #0.75 BD) almost useless. L3 and L4 can hardly be protected (squeezed chemeney). After L2 it seems possible to get on L3 and L4 of Il Greco (bolted) thus skipping the last two exposed pitches. The last two pitches can be combined in a single one (~50 m long).
