Biddiriscottai is one of the most fascinating sea-facing crags in Sardinia. Only 20 minutes’ walk from Cala Gonone, you’ll find here a huge range of climbing routes, from the easy and short to the extreme overhangs. The crag of Biddiriscottai currently includes 60 routes, spread over 250 meters of solid limestone.

The first Sardinian crag rebolted with TITANIUM !

In 2021 Climbing Sardinia started a massive redevelopment campaign, equipping the majority of routes in Biddiriscottai with titanium bolts. The campaign was funded by the association with the support of a few very generous donations and carried out by volunteers.

Climbing on Titanium bolts

If your partner wants to climb top-rope please add a carabiner on the upper anchor as shown on this picture: The first climbing problems in Biddiriscottai were created in 1997, when G.L.Piras bolted the easy routes inside the grotto. Since then many climbers added new routes, including Oviglia, Mariacher and Piguet. Biddiriscottai is sheltered from the rain and from the mistral wind. It is the perfect climbing location in each season. Anyhow it should be avoided when the scirocco winds raise humidity as the rock can become greasy with sea moisture. Arriving in Biddiriscottai you’ll be amazed by the rock shapes of the big grotto. It is the reign of extreme overhangs, big jugs, knee-drops and all the fancy moves you can think of. The big grotto is where the wildest routes were bolted, going under the roof and in some cases even climbing down the other side. The nicest thing though is that it is also the house of many easy routes.

Which are the best routes in Biddiriscottai?

On the right side of the grotto there are 3 of the best routes of the entire crag: La spalliera (7b+), Il mago dormiglione (7a) and Passo salso (6a+). The first one is a classic, starting on overhanging jugs and going on the inner side of the grotto. Carrying on after the grotto there is a middle section with few nice easy routes, including Bargullich (6b) and the very extreme Il gladiatore (8a+): a wild series of tufas on a wonderful overhanging wall. The farthest part of the crag is equipped with more athletic routes, with hard starts and distanced bolting. Among the best routes is Maledetti miserabili (6b+) a puzzling off-width that can be climbed as a typical granite route. Many consider Viva Mexico Viva Zapata (7a) as one of the best climbing routes in Sardinia. After a pull-up on no-feet, it climbs a large tufa on good holds for as long as 30 metres. If you are looking for great climbing routes on 6a level it is also worth considering Fiore (6a+) and The hark (6a+)

Access

Drive to the port of Cala Gonone and follow the road that goes north along the sea, ending only 200 meters after the port. Pay your parking ticket or get a fine (not much, €29 in 2022). From the end of the road take the path along the sea and follow it for 20 minutes, you cannot possibly get lost as there are no escape routes. You will find the large cave first, followed by many more routes if you dare walking 1 more minute

Climbing Sardinia has started rebolting this crag using Titanium bolts.  

Make sure you CLIMB on NEWLY BOLTED routes ONLY.