Rock Climbing @ Buchi Arta

The vertical wall of Buchi Arta is one of the best climbing locations in Sardinia. It is not huge, but it hosts just over 50 perfect lines. The wall is perfectly vertical, rutted by infinite horizontal cuts of the rock. There’s’ plenty of holds, made of perfect shape for your fingertips. The length of the routes is mostly between 25 and 30 meters, guaranteeing a nice and long vertical journey. Also, the base of the crag is spacious and welcoming, with enormous trees casting shade for a nap or letting the kids run free. Buchi Arta is a 4-season crag, and probably one of the best summer crags in Cala Gonone. It is in shade until 1 pm, making it the perfect combination for the summer (that is climbing in the morning and swimming in the afternoon). What do we say of the access path? What access path? You park your car almost at the base of the crag!

Now, to straighten things, nothing is perfect, neither Buchi Arta. Therefore, these are its CONS: it is extremely popular, and often overcrowded. Avoid it in September, when most northern-European climbing families come to Sardinia during school holidays. The wall is so straight and filled with horizontal cuts that after you climbed 10 routes, all the others will look the same. Due to its popularity, the easiest and most repeated routes are getting polished.

History

The climbing sector Buchi Arta has a funny history, although shared with so many other climbing crags. It was first discovered and equipped by some unknown Swiss climbers, who wished to keep it off the radar. Later on, they were joined by a well-known Italian climber, who helped in bolting a great number of routes. All the original routes were equipped with homemade material, made of thick stainless-steel plates (ps: after 17 years these plates are more solid than newer, European law conform, equipment).  Eventually, though, local climbers found the crag and started adding new routes. It quickly became one of the most popular climbing sectors in Cala Gonone, but all the routes remained un-named. There are still clashes between those who write climbing grades at the base of the routes and those who want to keep it as natural as possible. Our advice is to climb and do not alter the state of things. Climbers can sometimes be bitches!

Best Season

As mentioned above, Buchi Arta is a 4 season climbing crag. It is probably best in the summer than in the winter, that’s because it stays in shade until lunchtime, and during a cold windy winter day that is not the ideal scenario. There are surely better winter crags in Cala Gonone.

Access

From the bendy road that goes to Cala Gonone starts a cemented road with indications “Nuraghe Mannu”. Follow this road for 4,3 Km, then take a left turn towards the huts “Buchi Arta”. Keep going for 3 km more (total 7 km from the tarmacked road) until the spot indicated by our map.

Please download the GPS track in advance, as there is NO MOBILE RECEPTION in Buchi Arta.