Area: Cala Gonone

Biddiriscottai – multipitch

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Multipitch bolted

Vertical walls

Sun in the morning

60 min approach

Exposed to all winds

Climb all year

10 routes

in total

La vita nuova

100 m

Multi-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Innocenti

Year

2014

Last re-bolted

2020

Equipment

Titanium

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

6a, 6a, 5c, 6a

Pitches lenght

ASCENTS / BROWSE ALL

Neulet

24 Luglio, 2022

★★★★

Note: Très belle voie avec un équipement abondant très serré. La première longueur est soutenue en 6a+. La 2ème 6a soutenu. 3eme en dalle un peu terreuse 5b. La dernière est très belle en 5c. Descente en rappel. 23 mètres + 23 mètres (une seule corde de 50) puis 45. Accès facile et rapide par le chemin du bord de mer. 15 mn pour rejoindre la grotte, puis moins de 10mn pour rejoindre le départ de la voie.

Lidl

22 Settembre, 2022

★★★★★

Note: Short but very good climb in this grade

Gerald

22 Settembre, 2022

★★★★

Note: Sehr schöne kurze Mehrseillängenroute

Maxr397

30 Aprile, 2022

★★★★★

Note: 2 pitches with 50 meters rope. Top quality bolds and route

100 m

Multi-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Year

Last re-bolted

2022

Equipment

Titanium

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

6a+, 6b, 5c, 5c

Pitches lenght

30, 20, 20, 30

NOTE: It starts 2 metres right of "la vita nuova", sharing the same first belay point. From the second belay point it goes to "Alla ricerca del punto C". And ends on the two final pitches of "La vita nuova"

ASCENTS / BROWSE ALL

Gerald

25 Settembre, 2022

★★★★

Note: Sehr schöne 2. SEILLÄNGE

Lidl

25 Settembre, 2022

★★★★

Note: Nice and Short climb. But the first pitch is harder as the second.

Alla ricerca del punto C

6b+

100 m

Multi-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Year

Last re-bolted

2022

Equipment

Titanium

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

6a+, 6b+, 5b, 5c

Pitches lenght

40, 30, 30, 30

NOTE: Uscito dal grande diedro obliquo, il terzo tiro di unisce a "La vita Nuova". Originariamente continuava sul canale a destra ma era precipitavano troppi sassi

ASCENTS / BROWSE ALL

Lidl

22 Settembre, 2022

★★★★

Note: Interesting line with a bit powerful crux

Gerald

22 Settembre, 2022

★★★★

Note: Elegante, schöne und abwechslungsreich Route in bester Qualität

Xavier

23 Ottobre, 2017

★★★★

Innocenti deviazioni

6a+

90 m

Multi-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Innocenti, Pinotti e Oviglia

Year

2011

Last re-bolted

2021

Equipment

Titanium

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

6a, 6a+, 6a+, 5a

Pitches lenght

25, 30, 25, 10

NOTE: The last pitch is very short. If climbing with 2 half ropes of 60 metres, it takes just one abseil.

ASCENTS / BROWSE ALL

Gerald

25 Settembre, 2022

★★★★

Note: Schöne, sehr gut geboltede Route S1+

Ivan

5 Maggio, 2021

★★★★★

Note: Probably the most beautiful and easy multipitch by the sea. More engaging and continuous than La Vita Nuova

Lidl

25 Settembre, 2022

★★★

Note: Nice climb with very short pitches.

Xavier

22 Ottobre, 2016

★★★★

marc10bold

29 Aprile, 2022

★★★★★

Oceano mare

6b+

180 m

Multi-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Lecis

Year

1996

Last re-bolted

2022

Equipment

Titanium

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

6b+, 6b+, 6b, 6a+, 6b+

Pitches lenght

40, 30, 20, 30, 40

NOTE: Walk on the rocks to the very south-end. First bolt is 5 metres high. All anchors equipped for abseiling. Once at the top you can walk back, as the road is only 100 metres away.

ASCENTS / BROWSE ALL

Gerald

21 Settembre, 2022

★★★★

Note: Wunderschöne, steile Tour

Lidl

21 Settembre, 2022

★★★★

Note: Steep and beautiful climbing

Ivan

26 Marzo, 2023

★★★★★

Note: Nice route, continuity on good holds. Bolts failry close to each other

paologiunio

25 Marzo, 2023

★★★★

Note: Bella via in un tratto di costa veramente suggestivo. Ad eccezione del primo tiro che mi è sembrato non particolarmente bello e con un unico passo duretto, la via è molto omogenea come difficoltà. I tiri sono tutti atletici su buone prese e roccia aggressiva. La chiodatura è ottima e mai impegnativa come distanza tra le protezioni. Benché tutte le soste siano attrezzate per le doppie, si fa molto prima a scendere a piedi utilizzando la corda fissa di Millenium. In caso di maestrale molto forte, questa come le altre vie vicine, risulta comunque esposta al vento che qui si incanala risalendo la costa verso nord (vedere per credere).

jo_schmid

17 Aprile, 2003

★★★

Black Cimigiones

170 m

Dangerous route!

Multi-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Nadali e Torricelli

Year

2011

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

5c, 6c+, 6c, 6b, 6b, 6c, 7a

Pitches lenght

I miei amici sardi

110 m

Dangerous route!

Multi-pitch PARTIALLY BOLTED

Created by

Segura, Bayona, Rossynol e Mei

Year

2004

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

6c, 6a, 5c, 6c, 6a (A0)

Pitches lenght

NOTE: TRAD route. It is required a complete series of friends, nuts and cordalette. Anchoring points are equipped. On the first pitch it is possible to skip the crux by pulling the friends.

Zanahoria

6a+

110 m

Multi-pitch PARTIALLY BOLTED

Created by

Segura

Year

2004

Last re-bolted

2022

Equipment

Titanium

Obligatory

6a+

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

6a, 6a+, 5a, 5c

Pitches lenght

30, 30, 15, 30

NOTE: One of the most peculiar multipitches in Sardinia. It goes inside two enormous cavities of the rock, like a vertical tunnel. Hard sections and anchors are re-bolted in Titanium, but most parts require FRIENDS and cordalette. Walk from the top of the route back to the road. Avoid abseiling as ropes can easily get stuck

ASCENTS / BROWSE ALL

paologiunio

16 Aprile, 2023

★★★★

Note: Via molto particolare e divertente da scalare. I tiri sono corti ma permettono di limitare l'attrito della corda e di mantenere una buona comunicazione con il secondo. Personalmente ho messo solo un friend BD #0.5 all'uscita dell'ultimo buco in corrispondenza di una placchetta mancante.

schmidni

15 Aprile, 2023

★★★★

Note: Spectacular path through the rock, fun route! Great effort rebolting it, thanks! Third pitch rather a 6a than a 5a?

Ivan

★★★★

Note: It needs a few cordalettes, 6mm thick, to secure the second pitch. Cams from .75 to 2 BD beneficial

Millennium Bug

7b+

110 m

Multi-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Giupponi e Oviglia

Year

2010

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

7a, 6c+, 7b+, 7a+, 7a+

Pitches lenght

Apriti cielo

150 m

Dangerous route!

Multi-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Lecis e Sarti

Year

1996

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

6b, 6c, 6b+, 6b, 6c

Pitches lenght

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