Area: Cala Gonone

Millennium

One of the most amazing crags. A cave by the sea with lots of overhanging routes on huge tufas and stalactites. It takes a via ferrata to reach the crag from the dirt road

Watch out for the old and rusty bolts. Most of the problems are OK though

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Sport routes

Overhanging walls

Sun in the morning

40 min approach

Sheltered from Mistral

Climb all year

38 routes in total

Incompiuta

6a+

49 m

Multi-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Bulluggiu e Oviglia

Year

2013

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Obligatory

6a+

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

5c, 6a+

Pitches lenght

Semaforo rotto

20 m

SPORT route

Created by

Oviglia e Marchi

Year

2020

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Millennium bug

7b+

110 m

Dangerous route!

Multi-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Giupponi e Oviglia

Year

2010

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 304

Obligatory

7a+

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

7a, 6c+, 7b+, 7a+, 7a+

Pitches lenght

NOTE: Bolts are oxidated. Avoid this route until rebolted

Mammuthone

8b+

40 m

Dangerous route!

Multi-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Kubista

Year

2003

Last re-bolted

2021

Equipment

Expansion 316L Marine

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

6c+, 8b+

Pitches lenght

NOTE: The first pitch was rebolted with Steel 316. The second pitch still has original bolts made of Steel 304. Do not climb the second pitch until rebolted

Chentu concas chentu berrittas

7b+

30 m

SPORT route

Created by

Kubista

Year

2003

Last re-bolted

2022

Equipment

Titanium

Crisi al buio

30 m

SPORT route

Created by

M.Oviglia

Year

2021

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Millennium

7c+

70 m

Multi-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Lecis e Sarti

Year

1999

Last re-bolted

2021

Equipment

Expansion 316L Marine

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

7a, 7c+, proj

Pitches lenght

La legge delle chiodande

7a+

25 m

Dangerous route!

SPORT route

Created by

Kubista

Year

2003

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 304

NOTE: This route requires new anchors

Vertacomicoriens team

30 m

SPORT route

Le lion de Panjshir

8b+

50 m

Multi-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Guesquiers

Year

2001

Last re-bolted

2022

Equipment

Titanium

Obligatory

8b+

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

8b, 8b+

Pitches lenght

Come un gatto sull’Aurelia

25 m

SPORT route

Created by

Oviglia

Year

2009

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Vercors connection

20 m

SPORT route

Created by

Unknown

Year

2016

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Dea pagana

30 m

Dangerous route!

SPORT route

Created by

Lecis

Year

2006

Last re-bolted

Equipment

NOTE: The bolts are old and oxidated. It requires new anchors

Gli dei tossici

7b+

30 m

Dangerous route!

SPORT route

Created by

Lecis

Year

2006

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 304

NOTE: Bolts are oxidated. Avoid this route until rebolted

Tre corsari

7a+

27 m

Dangerous route!

SPORT route

Created by

Pinotti

Year

2004

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 304

NOTE: Bolts are oxidated. Avoid this route until rebolted

33 trentini

6b+

27 m

SPORT route

Created by

Pinotti

Year

2004

Last re-bolted

2020

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Capitan Shakespeare

6c+

30 m

Dangerous route!

SPORT route

Created by

Pinotti e Comi

Year

2009

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 304

NOTE: Bolts are oxidated. Avoid this route until rebolted

Opus

25 m

Dangerous route!

SPORT route

Created by

Unknown

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

NOTE: A destra rispetto a "Capitan Shakespeare"

proj

20 m

Dangerous route!

SPORT route

NOTE: Very rusty

Tom el sereno

25 m

Dangerous route!

SPORT route

Created by

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 304

NOTE: Bolts are oxidated. Avoid this route until rebolted

Ciao Alessandra, ciao Renzo

7a+

20 m

Dangerous route!

SPORT route

Created by

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 304

NOTE: Richiodata male.... attenzione

Casus belli

6b+

15 m

SPORT route

Created by

Oviglia e Marchi

Year

2020

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

NOTE: Long traverse to the left

Harry Potter

7b+

25 m

Dangerous route!

SPORT route

Created by

Oviglia

Year

2004

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 304

NOTE: Bolts are oxidated. Avoid this route until rebolted

The day after

25 m

Dangerous route!

SPORT route

Created by

Oviglia

Year

2004

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 304

NOTE: Bolts are oxidated. Avoid this route until rebolted

Akro Kalymnos

7c+

40 m

SPORT route

NOTE: This is an extension of "The Day After"

Il mio miglior amico

25 m

SPORT route

Created by

Oviglia

Year

2003

Last re-bolted

2019

Equipment

Expansion 316L Marine

Bugiardo

7c+

25 m

SPORT route

Created by

Oviglia

Year

2004

Last re-bolted

2021

Equipment

Expansion 316L Marine

NOTE: The lower off was rebolted in titanium

Testardo

25 m

SPORT route

Created by

Oviglia

Year

2004

Last re-bolted

2021

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Giardino dell’Eden

6b+

22 m

Dangerous route!

SPORT route

Created by

Sarti e Kubista

Year

2003

Last re-bolted

2003

Equipment

Glue-in zinc-plated

NOTE: The route was extended during in 2021. The lower original route (22 metres) keeps the original bolts, watch out!!

Il giardino dell’eden EXT

30 m

SPORT route

Created by

Oviglia

Year

2021

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion 316L Marine

Rhapsody

27 m

Dangerous route!

SPORT route

Created by

M.Oviglia

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Glue-in Steel 316

NOTE: Old glue-in bolts, potentially very dangerous

Mata Durga

7b+

35 m

SPORT route

Created by

Lecis

Year

2004

Last re-bolted

2021

Equipment

Expansion 316L Marine

NOTE: Starts on Rhapsody and continues left. The higher part was rebolted, but the starts is in BAD CONDITIONS (update Dec 2022)

Yoddu li e Dulli ö

20 m

SPORT route

Created by

Sarti e Kubista

Year

2003

Last re-bolted

2021

Equipment

Expansion 316L Marine

Kubomaladia: zigantumania

8c+

65 m

Dangerous route!

Multi-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Kubista

Year

2006

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 304

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

7c+, 8c+

Pitches lenght

NOTE: Bolts are oxidated. Avoid this route until rebolted

Il vecchio e il mare

60 m

Dangerous route!

Multi-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Larcher

Year

2003

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 304

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

8a, 8b

Pitches lenght

NOTE: Bolts are oxidated. Avoid this route until rebolted

Si su kelu fit in terra

7c+

40 m

SPORT route

Created by

Kubista

Year

2003

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Adamo

20 m

SPORT route

Created by

Selis e Mattu

Year

2003

Last re-bolted

2021

Equipment

Expansion 316L Marine

NOTE: Catena+ 2 piastrine in inox 316L

Mare aperto

20 m

SPORT route

Created by

Selis e Mattu

Year

2003

Last re-bolted

2021

Equipment

Expansion 316L Marine

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Uploaded by: Ivan “These are the first bolts of Rhapsody and Mata Durga. Although it is written that it was rebolted, not a thorough job for sure....”

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