Rock climbing at the Grotta dei Colombi

This is the largest grotto on the cliffs north of Cala Gonone, the one that you can always spot from the sea or from the mountains of the gulf. What makes this sector so special is the extremely remote and beautiful location, as well as the extraordinary lines wiggling on tufas and stalactites. There are climbing routes both inside and outside the cave, mostly sport routes inside and multi-pitches outside. Both the location and the sport routes are really worth a visit, despite the long and difficult approach.

Warning

The walls of the grotto, although made of solid limestone, perspire the humidity that comes from above. You can take for granted that during the rainy season the inside of those walls is just like a sponge. Water drops filled with calcium carbonate are in effect the source that creates all those stalactites. In addition, due to its proximity to the sea, the grotto keeps receiving salty moisture, which deposits on the surface of the bolts and corrodes them. What’s more, warm air filled with moisture is trapped at the top of the grotto, condensing on the walls and dampening the bolts even during the summer.

Said this, it is clear that steel bolts should be checked and possibly replaced every few years. But, as none is taking care of this sector, we recommend paying an awful lot of attention when climbing on old protections.

On the good side, we rebolted the multi pitch “L’Alchimista” with titanium bolts ????

History

The hard routes on the left of the Grotta dei Colombi were equipped by Italian top climber Pietro Dal Prà, who bolted up an enormous amount of insanely difficult routes. Some of these lines register zero repetitions and currently may need proper rebolting. This is why we did not put those routes in our guide. Just avoid them… It was only in 2016 that Czech climber Jan Kares bolted up the beautiful lines at the top of the grotto, adding new life to the crag.

Access

The Grotta dei Colombi is not very easy to reach…

– The best way to reach it is by boat, either from Cala Gonone or from Orosei, paying someone to give you a lift to go and come back.
– You can also walk there, passing by the climbing sector Millennium. That takes a total of about 2 hours to walk, including a via ferrata.
– The third alternative is walking over the climbing sector of El Chorro, and abseiling from the climbing route “l’Alchimista” (8 pitches). Return walking from Millennium, or having a boat to pick you up.

Warning

The walls of the grotto, although made of solid limestone, perspire the humidity that comes from above. You can take for granted that during the rainy season the inside of those walls is just like a sponge. Water drops filled with calcium carbonate are in effect the source that creates all those stalactites. In addition, due to its proximity to the sea, the grotto keeps receiving salty moisture, which deposits on the surface of the bolts and corrodes them. What’s more, warm air filled with moisture is trapped at the top of the grotto, condensing on the walls and dampening the bolts even during the summer.

Said this, it is clear that steel bolts should be checked and possibly replaced every few years. But, as none is taking care of this sector, we recommend paying an awful lot of attention when climbing on old protections.

On the good side, we rebolted the multi pitch “L’Alchimista” with titanium bolts ????