Fuili – Pederiva

Fuili – Pederiva

Fuili – Pederiva

Pederiva is one of the most challenging and appreciated sectors in Cala Gonone. The slightly overhanging wall is made of solid limestone pimped out with magnificent tufas and sharp cracks. It is the reign of the 7 grade, where each performance is as rewarding as climbing rocks can be. From left to right, all the routes have something special about the way you have to move and the concentration you require to reach the top.

The central part of the wall has the most peculiar routes, from Cenerentola (7c) to Hansel und Gretel (7c) and L’anno Nuovo (8a). They are routes of enormous satisfaction, not for the beginners!

History

As the name suggests, this sector was created by the alpine guide Bruno Pederiva. Just like many other alpinists, Bruno fell in love with Sardinia and started bolting up new routes since his first trips to the Island. Ultimi Giorni (7c) was the first route he bolted in this sector, as early as 1987. Two years later Bruno returned to add many new routes, creating the hardest sport climbing sector in Sardinia. Other renowned alpinists, such as Manolo, added more routes, completing a stupendous wall.

Best Season

Just any season but NOT THE SUMMER is good to climb at Pederiva. The wall is exposed to the southeast and gathers both heath and humidity from the sea.

Acecss

You can walk from Cala Gonone, or drive to the end of the road to Cala Fuili. Keep in mind that the local police fines cars that are parked inside the lines of the road. Thus try parking outside the road, and do not try to reach the end of the road as there is no way to reverse.

Once at the bottom of the stairs to the beach turn right and walk through the gorge. After a 10 minutes walk, you shall see the wall of Pederiva on top of a bend to the left.

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Sport routes

Overhanging walls

Sun in the afternoon

25 min approach

Sheltered from Mistral

Climb all year


20 routes in total
Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Oviglia

Year

2000

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Pederiva

Year

1989

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Pederiva

Year

1989

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Pederiva

Year

1989

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Lecis

Year

1992

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Pederiva

Year

1989

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Kubista

Year

1995

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Pederiva

Year

1995

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Pederiva

Year

1989

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Pederiva

Year

1987

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Pederiva

Year

1989

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Bertoni

Year

2007

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Pederiva

Year

1989

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Pederiva

Year

1989

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Oviglia

Year

2000

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Manolo e Oviglia

Year

2000

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Manolo e Oviglia

Year

2000

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Lecis

Year

1996

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Bertoni

Year

2004

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

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