Area: San Vito lo capo

Parete nord

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Vertical walls

Sun all day

15 min approach

Sheltered from Scirocco

Climb all year

18 routes in total

Progetto

proj

Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Calabrese + D'Alberto + Cutietta

Year

2012

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

Pitches lenght

L’oracolo del sud

185 m

Multi-pitch PARTIALLY BOLTED

Created by

Cappucciati + Cerretti

Year

2011

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

6a, 6b, 6c, 7a, 6a, 5c

Pitches lenght

35, 30, 30, 35, 30, 25

NOTE: It may be climbed with one single rope 70 m, 12 quickdraws, a series of friends and slings. Lower-offs are equipped for abseiling too, fixes placed on hard sections. For the rest is should be integrated with friends. Awesome third pitch on a long dihedron.

Tra vento e vertigine

200 m

Multi-pitch PARTIALLY BOLTED

Created by

Cappucciati + Tagliabue

Year

2012

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

7a, 7b, 6b, 6a+, 7a

Pitches lenght

40, 30, 50, 35, 40

NOTE: Partially equipped. It needs 2 x 60 m half ropes, a series of Friends up to size 3 BD, slings and nuts. Very athletic and exposed on some parts, overall very satisfactory climb. Abseiling on the route, one long abseil from the top of pitch 2 (60 meters)

La vita tra le dita

6b+

200 m

Multi-pitch PARTIALLY BOLTED

Created by

Faletti + Failla + Soraci + Filocamo

Year

2013

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

6b+, 6a+, 6b+, 6a, 6a+, 6b

Pitches lenght

30, 40, 25, 30, 40, 25

L’essenziale è invisibile agli occhi

6b+

120 m

Multi-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Pezzolato + Gojak (bottom 2 pitches) / Calabrese + Pinotti (top pitches)

Year

2003

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

6a+, 6a+, 6b+, 6b

Pitches lenght

30, 30, 30, 40

NOTE: Fully bolted. Take 10 quickdraws and 2 x 60 m ropes. Abseiling on the route, bottom two pitches can be abseiled together (60 meters)

Fiori strappati

200 m

Multi-pitch PARTIALLY BOLTED

Created by

Simoni +Testa

Year

2011

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

6c+, 6c, 7a, 6c, 7a, 6c

Pitches lenght

40, 40, 35, 40, 20, 30

NOTE: Created by the GF Alpine Rescue and dedicated deceased rescuerers. Lower-offs and hard sections are equipped. It needs 2 x 50 m ropes, a full set of Friends up to size 3 BD (duble up small ones). Difficulties are sustained and requires good confidence on trad climbing. Abseiling on the route.

Pare siano trentini

200 m

Multi-pitch PARTIALLY BOLTED

Created by

Brunet + Canteri

Year

2011

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

35, 35, 30, 45, 20, 30

Pitches lenght

6b, 6b, 6b+, 6b+, 6b+, 6c

NOTE: Partially equipped. It needs 2 x 60 m ropes, slings and a set of Friends (abounding on small and medium sizes). Only 1 fix on the first pitch. Abseiling on the route

Walking on the moon

170 m

Multi-pitch PARTIALLY BOLTED

Created by

Tamagnini + Monaco

Year

2010

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

40, 15, 20, 30, 15, 35, 25

Pitches lenght

5b, 6a+, 6b+, 5c, 5c, 6a+, 6b+, 6c

NOTE: Only the first pitch was fully equipped, after that it's only lower-offs. It needs 2 x 60 m ropes, slings, nuts and a series of Friends (abound on small and medium sizes). At the top of pitch 3 traverse left on the large ledge to reach a lower-off placed around a column. Abseiling on the route (can do 2 pitches at once).

Il bugiardo

270 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Manfrè + Ruvolo

Year

1993

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

6a, 6b, 6a, 5b, 5c, 5b, 3

Pitches lenght

50, 35, 40, 20, 35, 60, 30

NOTE: Trad route. It takes 2 x 60 m ropes, 12 quickdraws, slings and a full set of Friends up to size 3 BD. Some pytons and cordalette left from previous climbers along the route. The itinerary is easy to understand and fairly demanding. Abseliing from other routes or walking down on a easy path from the top.

Il volo di Pegasus

260 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Leitchfried + Ranner

Year

2010

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

6a, 6c, 6a+, 6a, 6a+, 7a, 6b

Pitches lenght

60, 25, 50, 40, 35, 25, 25

NOTE: Trad route. It takes 1 x 70 m single rope (or 2 x 60 m ropes if you intend to abseil). Have at least 12 quickdraws, slings and a full set of Friends up to 3 BD. Abseiling it is possible but not recommended, scramble instead to the top to reach the path on the other side.

Schoggijob

200 m

Multi-pitch PARTIALLY BOLTED

Created by

Schupbach + Weber + Beck

Year

2012

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

5c, 6c, 7a, 7a, 6b

Pitches lenght

60, 30, 40, 45, 25

NOTE: Partially equipped. It takes 1 x 70 m rope as you'd better not abseil on this route. Have at least 12 quickdraws, a series of Friends, nuts and slings. Although the first pitch is quite easy, the rest of the route is very challenging. It shares the top 2 pitches with "Il volo di Pegasus". Walking down from the top, or abseling from another route.

You cannoli die once

200 m

Multi-pitch PARTIALLY BOLTED

Created by

Caldwell + Trotter + Wharton

Year

2014

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

6b, 5b, 7b+, 6b, 6a, 7c+

Pitches lenght

NOTE: Partially equipped. It takes 1 x 70 m rope, slings and a series of small to medium Friends. It shares the same staring with " La lingua Pura", moving then to the left. Abseiling NOT recommended, you'd rather walk down from top.

La lingua pura

200 m

Multi-pitch PARTIALLY BOLTED

Created by

Leitchfried + Mair

Year

2009

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

6b, 6c+, 6b+, 7a, 7c, 6c, 6a+, 5b

Pitches lenght

40, 35, 25, 20, 15, 20, 20, 25

NOTE: Partially equipped. It takes 1 x 70 m rope, 12 quickdraws, slings and a serie of Friends small to medium sizes. Abseiling NOT recommended, walking down instead

Blow it up on the internet

7b+

200 m

Multi-pitch PARTIALLY BOLTED

Created by

Kalous + Thesenga

Year

2011

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

6b, 6c+, 7a, 7a, 7a+, 7b+, 5c

Pitches lenght

40, 35, 30, 30, 30, 40, 25

NOTE: Partially equipped. It takes 1 x 70 m rope, 12 quickdraws, slings and a serie of Friends small to medium sizes. Abseiling NOT recommended, walking down instead

La collina dei conigli

6b+

160 m

Multi-pitch PARTIALLY BOLTED

Created by

Giglio +Iemmi

Year

2007

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

6a+, 6a, 6b+, 6b, 5c, 4c

Pitches lenght

30, 35, 25, 25, 20, 25

NOTE: Partially equipped. It is always in the shade, perfect in the summertime. Avoid it though on humid days. it takes 1 x 70 m rope, 10 quickdraws, slings and a serie of Friends small to medium sizes. Abseiling NOT recommended, walking down instead

Progetto

proj

90 m

Multi-pitch PARTIALLY BOLTED

Created by

Soraci + Failla

Year

2011

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

Pitches lenght

Forza di Polacco

170 m

Multi-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Paweł Zieliński

Year

2024

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

7a, 5c, 6b, 7c, 6c, 6b+

Pitches lenght

35, 20, 35, 25, 25, 30

NOTE: The route is independent and completely bolted. It requires 2x60 meters ropes, 11 quickdraws and slings.

Corsa d’autunno

600 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Calabrese + Manfrè

Year

1993

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

Pitches lenght

NOTE: Trad route. It takes 2 x 60 m ropes, a full set of Friends, nuts and slings. It is located in the gap between Monte Monaco and Pizzo Monaco, starting on the arete and continuing along the long ridge to the very top. Most pitches are very easy and climbers can choose when and where to stop each pitch, varying the number of pitches to the top.

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Parete nord

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18 routes in total

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