Area: San Vito lo capo

Sperone est

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Vertical walls

Sun in the morning

15 min approach

Exposed to all winds

Climb all year

10 routes in total

November Sun

240 m

Multi-pitch BOLTED

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

6c+, 7a+, 7a+, 7a+, 7a, 7b, 7b, 6a+

Pitches lenght

35, 40, 35, 30, 30, 20, 25, 40

Via delle punte (fratelli Titt)

430 m

Multi-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Bonamini e Manfrè

Year

1981

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

4c, 5a, 4c, 5b, 5b, 5a, 4a, 5a, 5a, 4b, 4c, 4b

Pitches lenght

27, 18, 38, 20, 40, 40, 37, 30, 30, 40, 35, 40

NOTE: Long and easy multipitch, climbing the entire height of the Sperone Est. All bolted up, although long spaced bolts on easy bits. Some rope drag on the upper pitches, take some slings to elongate quickdraws. It is recommended to have a small set of friends and nuts

Vento del sud

220 m

Multi-pitch BOLTED

Created by

C.Hainz + G. Schwienbacher

Year

2019

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

4a, 5a, 5b, 5c, 5b, 5c, 5b, 2

Pitches lenght

37, 30, 40, 30, 35, 30, 40, 30

NOTE: It starts with the initial 6 pitches of "Via delle Punte", or the initial 7 pitches of "Sogni d'oro", and then continues to the top of the wall

Sogni d’oro

200 m

Multi-pitch BOLTED

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

6b, 6a+, 5c, 6b+, 6b, 6b+, 5c (then continue on Vento del Sud)

Pitches lenght

37, 32, 18, 30, 25, 25, 35

NOTE: Bottom pitches are sustained, independent until the top of the pillar. From there you can choose to continue on "Via delle Punte" on easier grades, or on "Vento del Sud". It starts between the small pillar and "Via delle Punte". No abseiling required, there's a path that leads back down. If you intend to abseil, do it before the 7th pitch, as the rope will definitely get stuck and the rock is very sharp.

Via dei romani

130 m

Multi-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Antonioli e Filocamo

Year

2010

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

5c, 6a, 5c

Pitches lenght

30, 50, 50

NOTE: 3 pitches only, as the bolters abandoned the project (they discovered someone climbed it in trad style before them)

Lo sballo di San Vito

400 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Antonioli, Gogna e Marantonio

Year

1981

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

Pitches lenght

Palma nana

90 m

Multi-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Rossi + Gianatti

Year

2004

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

6a, 6b, 6a

Pitches lenght

30, 30, 30

NOTE: 3 pitches only. Great rock and athletic style. It was interrupted by the bolters when they noticed it would cross "Lo sballo di San Vito"

Gioco d’ombre

400 m

Multi-pitch PARTIALLY BOLTED

Created by

Manfrè + Lo Dico

Year

1987

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

6a, 5b, 5b, 4c, 6a, 5a, 5c, 6a, 5c, 5b, 5a

Pitches lenght

35, 30, 30, 25, 40, 15, 40, 30, 40, 60, 55

NOTE: Partially Equipped. Take 2 x 60 m ropes, a full set of Friends, slings and nuts. It starts with generous bolting, which gradually fades on upper pitches. No abseling passed the 5th pitch. Once you reach the top you better walk down.

Orient Express

6c+

400 m

Multi-pitch PARTIALLY BOLTED

Created by

Flaccavento + Cappuccio + Cavallo

Year

2002

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

6a, 6c, 6a, 6c+, 6a+, 5b, 6a, 6b+, 6b, 6c, 5a, 5a, 5a

Pitches lenght

25, 30, 20, 30, 30, 30, 25, 30, 45, 40, 30, 30, 40

NOTE: The route is partially equipped. All lower-offs are bolted up and difficult sections are protected. It takes a series of Friends from size 0.1 to 2 BD and a series of Nuts. 2 x 50 meters ropes, and NO abseiling from pitch n.8 onward. If you commit to continue you shall walk down the path from the summit

I mari del sud

300 m

Multi-pitch PARTIALLY BOLTED

Created by

M.Oviglia + S.Sarti

Year

2001

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

4c, 6b+, 6c, 6c+, 6c, 7b, 6c+, 6c, 6c

Pitches lenght

25, 40, 40, 40, 35, 25, 15, 40, 40

NOTE: 2 x 50 meters ropes, 10 quickdraws, a series of small nuts, slings and some friends. Although only 1 very hard pitch (7b), the whole route is very engaging with flat slabs and overhanging dihedrals. What's more, bolts can be far apart, making it even more psychologically challenging. One sad detail... it does not reach the summit. This means one should abseil, or commit to the summit on easy but unprotected ground.

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Sperone est

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10 routes in total

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