Area: Gallura

Tavolara

The northern wall of Tavolara was first climbed by Bodo Habel and his friends at the end of the seventies. The majority of routes, all in classic style, reach Punta Cannone and Punta Lucca. Habel published a booklet titled “Faszination Tavolara” on which he listed all their climbs, although not very clear in the descriptions.

More recently, Giuliano Stenghel opened the vast majority of routes on the southern crag. These have to be approached by boat and, some of them, ought to be started right from the boat.

From april to october the Bertoleoni family runs ferries from Porto San Paolo to Tavolara. They start at 9:00 am and the last return ferry is at 18:00. Please double-check the timing at the port.

For private boat transfers, also in winter, contact the Bertoleoni family at +39 339 9000919

Please note that Tavolara is a private island and the peaks Punta Cannone and Punta Lucca belong to the Marzano family, who is not very enthusiast of climbers.

The north-east side of Tavolara is a military base and thus barred.

The sea also is a protected area and boats can not moor or throw the anchor.

Log-in or Register to view routes’ lines on this image

Multipitch trad

Vertical walls

Sun all day

Approach by boat

Sheltered from Mistral

Winter crag

38 routes in total

Via degli amici

250 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

III, VI, VI+, V, IV

Pitches lenght

NOTE: Necessari chiodi e una serie completa di friends. Lasciati alcuni chiodi e cordini su clessidre. Discesa a piedi lungo la ferrata normale

Via gran diedro

250 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Stenghel, Franco, Prati e Salvaterra

Year

2017

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

III, V, VI+, VI, VI

Pitches lenght

NOTE: Necessari chiodi e una serie completa di friends. Lasciati alcuni chiodi e cordini su clessidre. Discesa a piedi lungo la ferrata normale

Vagabundengrat

250 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Habel, Eberhardt e Sauer

Year

1978

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

Pitches lenght

Via della Madonnina

220 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Stenghel e Rizzi

Year

2008

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

Pitches lenght

NOTE: Primo e ultimo tiro in comune con Vagabundengrat, si sposta poi a destra della cresta. Qualche chiodo lasciato in via

I fiori di Bach

6b+

170 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Oviglia e Sarti

Year

2016

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

6a+

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

6b, 6b, 6a+, 6b, 6a+, 6b+

Pitches lenght

30, 50, 30, 20, 20, 15

NOTE: Soste attrezzate. Portare due serie di friends

Affora sa NATO

215 m

Multi-pitch PARTIALLY BOLTED

Obligatory

6a+

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

5c, 6a+, 6a, 6b, 6a, 4, 6a

Pitches lenght

30, 30, 30, 30, 30, 30, 35

NOTE: Via interamente attrezzata. L'inizio della via è stato spostato a sinistra di circa 20 metri. Dalla cima è possibile scendere per la via ferrata normale

Gemeinschaftsweg

200 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Habel e Winfried

Year

1978

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

Pitches lenght

Nella

180 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Stenghel e Rizzi

Year

2017

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

Pitches lenght

Traverso Infinito

1000 m

DWS

Created by

Stenghel

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

NOTE: Traverso sul mare di oltre 1000 metri

Monte Petrosu Grat

400 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Habel, Eberhardt e Maltusch

Year

1979

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

4 e un passo di 5b

Pitches lenght

Marzia

250 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

Pitches lenght

Via Sten-Moi

200 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Stenghel e Moi

Year

2017

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

Pitches lenght

Antichi guerrieri

180 m

Multi-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Stenghel, Giordani e Ferrari

Year

2017

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

3, 6a+, 6b, 6a,

Pitches lenght

40, 50, 40, 50

NOTE: Via plasier parzialmente attrezzata. Primo tiro traverso di terzo grado da attrezzare. Secondo tiro di 50m con solo due spit. Sosta con un anello. Terzo tiro due spit e clessidra. Ultimo tiro due clessidre attrezzate. Discesa in 3 doppie sulla via stessa

Il grido del gabbiano

6a+

250 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Stenghel e Moi

Year

2015

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

6a+

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

Pitches lenght

Via del Tao

200 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Stenghel e Moi

Year

2017

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

Pitches lenght

Follia

210 m

Multi-pitch PARTIALLY BOLTED

Created by

Caserini, Santambrogio e Clara

Year

2018

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

6a, 6b, 6a+, 5a, 5c, 6a+, 5a

Pitches lenght

30, 20, 30, 45, 30, 30, 25

NOTE: Soste attrezzate e qualche spit lungo la via, da integrare con friends dal 0.5 al 2 BD. Distanza tra gli spit molto elevata. Sufficienti 10 rinvii. Attacca sullo sperone alla sinistra della grotte "La Cattedrale". Discesa in 4 doppie lungo la via. Possibile ma vivamente sconsigliato camminare sino alla cima dell'isola

Cattedrale a Giovanna Maria

120 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Stenghel e Putzu

Year

2013

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

Pitches lenght

NOTE: Gradi dal 5a al 5c

Via Sten

280 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

Pitches lenght

La casa del sole

350 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Stenghel e Rizzi

Year

2017

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

Pitches lenght

proj

280 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

Pitches lenght

Pensieri e Parole

350 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Stenghel Giuliano e Chiara

Year

2016

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

6a+, 5a, 5b, 5b, 6a, facile

Pitches lenght

Lasciami volare

350 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Stenghel e Rizzi

Year

2014

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

3, 4, 5a, 5a, 3, 5b, 4, 3, 3, facile

Pitches lenght

Guya

6b+

240 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

Pitches lenght

Variante dei sardi

proj

240 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

Pitches lenght

Uomini leggendari

proj

300 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

Pitches lenght

Infinito Blu

6b+

240 m

Multi-pitch PARTIALLY BOLTED

Created by

Giordani e Ferrari

Year

2017

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

6b+

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

5b, 5b, 5a, 6b+, 5a, 6a

Pitches lenght

50, 45, 40, 40, 25, 40

NOTE: Soste attrezzate con un solo anello. Primo tiro da attrezzare. Secondo tiro con uno spot a metà. Terzo tiro no spit. Quarto tiro 3 spit e 2 clessidre attrezzate. Quinto e sesto tiro da attrezzare.

Via Arcangeli

6a+

220 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Stenghel e Zeni

Year

2017

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

6a+

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

6a+, 6a, 5b, 6a, 5a, 5a

Pitches lenght

La bella notizia

350 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Stenghel e Rizzi

Year

2017

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

6a, 5a, 5b, 5b, 6a, 5a

Pitches lenght

Realtà di un sogno

350 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Stenghel e Moi

Year

2016

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

6a, 5a, 5b, 4

Pitches lenght

Via delle mamme

350 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Stenghel, Monte, Nicolini e Gallizzi

Year

2016

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

6a, 5c, 5a, 5c, 5a, 5c, 5a

Pitches lenght

NOTE: i primi DUE TIRI in comune con "La Luce del Mondo". Raggiunta la cima della falesia prosegue facile per la cima di Punta Cannone

La luce del mondo

350 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Stenghel e Monte

Year

2016

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

6a, 5c, 5a, 4, 5a, 5a

Pitches lenght

NOTE: Dopo i primi 6 tiri prosegue facile per la cima di Punta Cannone

Dito di Dio

350 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

5a, 4, 6a, 5a, 5a

Pitches lenght

NOTE: A metà del terzo tiro incrocia "La Luce del Mondo", prosegue a sinistra e poi ritorna a destra per la medesima uscita

Capolavoro

180 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

V+, IV-, V+, VI+, VI+, V, facile

Pitches lenght

Piccolo Ettore

300 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

Pitches lenght

NOTE: In posto solamente 3 chiodi alle soste

Alba infuocata

260 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Stenghel e Salvaterra

Year

2019

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

IV, V, V, II, II

Pitches lenght

Nonno Fausto

300 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Stenghel e Monte

Year

2019

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

VI-, VI+, V, V, II, III

Pitches lenght

Sogni e ancora sogni

350 m

Created by

Stenghel e Zandonati

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

La poltrona del Papa

350 m

Multi-pitch TRAD

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

Pitches lenght

Travelers' Map is loading...
If you see this after your page is loaded completely, leafletJS files are missing.

Tavolara

Log-in or Register to view routes’ lines on this image

38 routes in total

Add your photos ▼