Surtana

Surtana
Area: Supramonte

Surtana

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Multipitch trad

Leaning walls

Sun in the afternoon

30 min approach

Exposed to all winds

Climb all year

66 routes in total

01

Taglienti spiriti

5a

100 m

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Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Barbiè, Canavese , Franco e Marcon

Year

1986

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

4

Pitches grades

4, 5a, 5a

Pitches lenght

25, 30, 25, 20

02

Serra Orrios

5b

90 m

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Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Malomo, Cervini e Vitale

Year

2013

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

4

Pitches grades

5b, 4, 5b, 5a

Pitches lenght

25, 15, 25, 35

03

Attila Lupu

6a

110 m

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Multi-pitch PARTIALLY BOLTED

Created by

Vitale, Cervini, Moretti e Filocamo

Year

2017

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

6a

n. of pitches

5

Pitches grades

5a, 5b, 6a, 5c, 5a

Pitches lenght

18, 25, 25, 25, 18
NOTE: Via da proteggere, necessari Friends e Nuts. Soste attrezzate. Calata in corda doppia sulla via stessa

04

Cortes apertas

6b

90 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Pibiri e Erriu

Year

2009

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

4

Pitches grades

6a, 6b, 5c, 6a+

Pitches lenght

20, 25, 25, 20

05

Seadas

6b

120 m

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Multi-pitch TRAD

Obligatory

n. of pitches

5

Pitches grades

5b, 5a, 6b, 5c, 6a+

Pitches lenght

06

Seven cams

6a+

170 m

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Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Oviglia e Erriu

Year

2013

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

5

Pitches grades

6a, 6a, 6a+, 5b, 4

Pitches lenght

07

SN

6b

80 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Obligatory

n. of pitches

2

Pitches grades

6b, 6a

Pitches lenght

08

Sa sedda ‘e sos carros

5a

120 m

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Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Vitale e Biocca

Year

2012

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

6

Pitches grades

4, 5a, 5a, 5a, 4, 4

Pitches lenght

20, 15, 20, 20, 25, 30

09

Plan B

6b

90 m

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Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Pibiri e Erriu

Year

2009

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

3

Pitches grades

6a, 6b, 5c

Pitches lenght

10

SN

6a+

35 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Obligatory

n. of pitches

1

Pitches grades

Pitches lenght

11

Orizzonte perduto

6b+

145 m

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Multi-pitch PARTIALLY BOLTED

Created by

Pibiri e Erriu

Year

2009

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Obligatory

6b

n. of pitches

5

Pitches grades

6a, 6b+, 6a, 6a+, 6b

Pitches lenght

20, 35, 38, 30, 25
NOTE: Necessary friends up to size 2BD and 14 quickdraws. First pitch only 2 spits. Second pitch mostly bolted on the hard and beautiful dihedron. Last pitch all trad. If completing the last pitch it is best to walk back (passing from cuile Sos Mojos), otherwise abseil from forth anchor.

12

Patty

6c+

115 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Donato e Fele

Year

1992

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

5

Pitches grades

6c+, 3, 6b+, 5b, 5b

Pitches lenght

13

Halleluja

7a

110 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Oviglia e Manconi

Year

2016

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

4

Pitches grades

6b, 7a, 6c, 6a+

Pitches lenght

30, 25, 35, 20

14

Esercita ingegno

6b+

80 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Florit e Pinotti

Year

2017

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

4

Pitches grades

6a+, 6b+, 4, 6c

Pitches lenght

25, 25, 15, 15

15

Venuto al mondo

6b+

170 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Pibiri e Saiu

Year

2013

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

6a+, 6b+, 6b, 5b, 5b

Pitches lenght

16

Controvento

6b+

100 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Florit e Pinotti

Year

2017

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

4

Pitches grades

6a, 6b+, 6b, 4,

Pitches lenght

30, 25, 30, 14

17

Trans Surtana Express

6c

125 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Fornaro, Bertoli e Garippa

Year

1986

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

5

Pitches grades

5a, 6b+, 6c, 6b, 6a

Pitches lenght

15, 35, 25, 30, 20

18

Coup d’epèe

6b

120 m

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Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Claude & Yves Remi

Year

1989

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

3

Pitches grades

6b, 5b, 6b

Pitches lenght

45, 25, 40

19

Porc et Pique

7a

110 m

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Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Claude & Yves Remi

Year

1989

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

4

Pitches grades

7a, 6c, 6b, 6a

Pitches lenght

20

Hearthbreak

6c+

60 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Lecis e Pibiri

Year

1991

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

2

Pitches grades

6a, 6c+

Pitches lenght

30, 30

21

Wish you were here

6b

50 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Lecis e Porcu

Year

1991

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

2

Pitches grades

6a+, 6b

Pitches lenght

25, 25

22

Hot Rats

4

110 m

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Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Delisi, Frezzotti e Iorio

Year

1980

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

3

Pitches grades

4, 4, 4

Pitches lenght

40, 30, 40

23

Ciocca la gnocca

6a+

18 m

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Sport climbingSPORT route

24

Mario il negro

5a

15 m

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Sport climbingSPORT route

25

Bitto e le pigne

6b+

15 m

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Sport climbingSPORT route

26

Il pirata Pappanera

5c

20 m

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Sport climbingSPORT route

27

Tun cià sete

6c

18 m

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Sport climbingSPORT route

28

SN

7a+

15 m

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Sport climbingSPORT route

29

Seul

6b

15 m

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Sport climbingSPORT route

30

Querelle

6b+

15 m

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Sport climbingSPORT route

31

Il paese delle meraviglie

5c

180 m

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Multi-pitch PARTIALLY BOLTED

Created by

Frezzotti e Iorio

Year

1980

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

5c

n. of pitches

5

Pitches grades

5b, 5a, 5c, 5a, 5a

Pitches lenght

40, 30, 35, 25, 30
NOTE: The route starts 10 meters right of the spur and reaches the arete on the second pitch. Mostly bolted with spits and pitons. Take just a few cams, sizes 0.5 to 1 BD. All anchors are bolted (not the best quality though). NO abseiling on the route. Can abseil from "Sound of Silence" or walk back down.

32

Cold wind

5c

200 m

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Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Year

2016

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

5c

n. of pitches

6

Pitches grades

5c

Pitches lenght

33

Semper onestu

6a+

160 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Fancello e Basolu

Year

2013

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

5

Pitches grades

6a, 6a, 6a+, 6a, 5c

Pitches lenght

34

SN

6b

180 m

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Dangerous route!

Multi-pitch TRAD

Obligatory

6b

n. of pitches

4

Pitches grades

6b, 6a, 5c, 6a+

Pitches lenght

NOTE: Difficult start, moving right into a thin diagonal crack. The rock at the top of the route is broken and dangerous. Avoid climbing this route

35

Pilier della tranquillità

5a

180 m

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Multi-pitch PARTIALLY BOLTED

Created by

Antonioli e Di Rao

Year

1980

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

5

Pitches grades

4, 5a, 5a, 3, 3

Pitches lenght

40, 40, 40, 35, 25

36

Hirsche platz

6a+

160 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Year

1999

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 304

Obligatory

6a+

n. of pitches

5

Pitches grades

6a, 5b, 6a+, 5b, 5b

Pitches lenght

30, 15, 25, 25, 35, 25
NOTE: Beautiful route with spaced-out bolting. First and second pitch can be climbed as one. Third and fourth pitches are challenging and varied, starting with a roof and continuing on a dihedron with a little crack and very delicate movements.

37

SN

6a+

40 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Obligatory

n. of pitches

2

Pitches grades

Pitches lenght

30, 10

38

Lucertole dalla coda azzurra

5b

180 m

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Multi-pitch PARTIALLY BOLTED

Created by

Bassi e Fornaro

Year

1982

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

4

Pitches grades

5a, 5b, 5a, 5a

Pitches lenght

NOTE: All lower-offs equipped. It has many spits on the hard and sections but needs to be integrated with friends and nuts.

39

Take five

6a+

130 m

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Multi-pitch PARTIALLY BOLTED

Created by

Mallucci e Galli

Year

2008

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

5

Pitches grades

5c, 5a, 6a+, 6a+, 5a

Pitches lenght

40

The sound of silence

6a+

130 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Pezzolato e Gojak

Year

1998

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

5

Pitches grades

5b, 5c, 6a+, 6a+, 5a

Pitches lenght

NOTE: The most beautiful and repeated route in Surtana. Constant difficulty and good (maybe a bit spaced) bolting. It has routes to both sides and could be easy to embark on another line, no worries though as the difficulties are the same

41

Paradise

5c

130 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Piguet e Tauxe

Year

2005

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

5

Pitches grades

5c+, 6a, 5c, 5b, 5c

Pitches lenght

NOTE: Stunning route. Runs parallel to Sound of Silence. Completely bolted. Watch out not to start with the right-hand variant as that's 6c. If you have 60 meters double ropes it takes only 3 abseils (60 +60 +30)

42

SN

6c+

30 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

Pitches lenght

43

Naufraghi nella notte

6a+

140 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Feller e Ondertoller

Year

2008

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

5

Pitches grades

6a+, 6a, 6a, 6a+, 6a

Pitches lenght

44

Via tranquilla

6a

50 m

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Sport climbingSPORT route

45

Su Professore

6a

150 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Grillo, Migheli, Bonfanti, Mazzucato

Year

2021

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

6a

n. of pitches

5

Pitches grades

Pitches lenght

NOTE: Completely bolted. The route does not reach the top of the crag. Move to left-hand routes to reach the top, or abseil along the route. Bottom 2 pitches can be abseiled as one (60 m ropes)

46

Lunghi coltelli

4

150 m

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Multi-pitch PARTIALLY BOLTED

Created by

Frezzotti e Iorio

Year

1980

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

5

Pitches grades

4, 4, 4, 4, 4

Pitches lenght

40, 30, 45, 25, 10
NOTE: All anchors are bolted.

47

Alpinisti efficienti

5a

130 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Bernabei e Gozzano

Year

1980

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

5

Pitches grades

5a, 5a, 5a, 3, 4

Pitches lenght

48

Ci vuole orecchio

5a

110 m

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Multi-pitch PARTIALLY BOLTED

Created by

Pibiri e Basolu

Year

2020

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

4

Pitches grades

5a, 5a, 5a, 5a

Pitches lenght

25, 25, 45, 14
NOTE: Parzialmente attrezzata. Necessari friends sino al 3 BD. Consigliata la discesa su Alpinisti Efficienti

49

Il salvatore della patria

6a

130 m

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Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Pinna, Corda e Gambella

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

6a+

n. of pitches

4

Pitches grades

V+, VI+, VI, V

Pitches lenght

35, 35, 30, 30

50

Nascondiglio efficiente

5c

30 m

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Sport climbingSPORT route

51

Sperone buio

4

130 m

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Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Delisi, Frezzotti e Iorio

Year

1980

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

5

Pitches grades

4, 4, 3, 3, 4

Pitches lenght

52

Come on

4

160 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Antonioli e Di Rao

Year

1980

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

4, 4, 4, 4

Pitches lenght

53

Tetto a sette

5b

160 m

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Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Grange e Jeantet

Year

1994

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

6

Pitches grades

4, 5b, 5b, 3, 4, 4

Pitches lenght

54

Paradiso perduto

5a

180 m

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Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Battimelli, Frezzotti e Iorio

Year

1980

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

5

Pitches grades

4, 4, 4, 3, 5a

Pitches lenght

NOTE: Starts on the right side of the spur, among vegetation. All anchoring points BOLTED. Keeps the line of the spur to the end. Easy and pleasant route

55

Calamite per sballati

5a

70 m

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Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Bausone, Parodi e Ravaschietto

Year

1982

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

2

Pitches grades

5a

Pitches lenght

56

Grigio mare

5a

90 m

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Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Vitale e Iacuessa

Year

2008

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

3

Pitches grades

5a, 5a, 5a

Pitches lenght

57

Fuga da fermo

6a

90 m

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Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Vitale e Scianella

Year

2009

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

4

Pitches grades

4, 6a, 5c, 5c

Pitches lenght

58

Panda sei grande

4

90 m

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Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Bausone, Parodi e Ravaschietto

Year

1982

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

3

Pitches grades

4, 4, 4

Pitches lenght

59

SN

5a

90 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

Pitches lenght

60

Triste pilier dei romantici

4

90 m

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Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Antonioli e Di Rao

Year

1980

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

2

Pitches grades

4, 4

Pitches lenght

61

Placche lazzi e frizzi

4

90 m

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Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Antonioli e Di Rao

Year

1980

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

3

Pitches grades

3, 4, 4

Pitches lenght

62

Alì il nero

5a

110 m

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Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Vitale e Iacuessa

Year

2008

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

4

Pitches grades

5a, 5a, 5a, 5a

Pitches lenght

63

Nadia

5a

60 m

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Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Maspes e varda

Year

1994

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

2

Pitches grades

5a, 5a

Pitches lenght

64

Speleologo tapino

4

90 m

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Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Antonioli e Di Rao

Year

1980

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

3

Pitches grades

4, 4, 2

Pitches lenght

65

Biancaneve

5a

60 m

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Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Bonelli e Salusso

Year

1981

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

3, 5a

Pitches lenght

66

Le radici del cielo

5a

70 m

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Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Bonelli e Salusso

Year

1981

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

2

Pitches grades

4, 5a

Pitches lenght

35, 35
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