rock climbing in supramonte


Rock climbing in Supramonte

The climbing area of Supramonte is the most remote and celebrated in Sardinia. Think of enormous limestone crags, hardly approachable mountains, large caverns, wild boars and eagles. Picture yourself at the top of an infinite vertical wall and taste the immense gratification of climbing.

Supramonte is a large mountain chain in the center east of Sardinia, part of a national park. As most of Sardinia is made of granite, limestone is what distinguishes Supramonte from neighboring mountains. The area includes the towns of Dorgali, Baunei, Urzulei, Orgosolo, and Oliena. Anyhow, although the areas of Baunei and Cala Gonone are part of Supramonte, they are listed separately due to a large number of climbing crags.


Where are the best sport climbing crags in Supramonte?

The valley of Lanaitto has many accessible and beautiful crags, located no more than 30 minutes walk from the road. Among the best is Su Gurruthone, with over 50 routes ranging from 5a to 8a, and Musicland, bolted with 50 routes extending from 5c to 7c. All these crags are purely winter crags. Avoid during the summer.


Can I climb on sport routes in Supramonte during the summer?

The coolest crag for sport climbing in the summer is Paretina Centrale. Although much appreciated by locals for the shade, its grades are very severe and its flat slabs can humble most climbers. Similarly, Genna Croce, located at 1000 meters above sea level. It too has severe grades and slabs that require accurate footwork.


Where are the best bolted multi-pitch routes in Supramonte?

Let’s say first that they are all fantastic! Really, all the climbing walls in Supramonte are magnificent. Just to mention a bunch, have a look at Bruncu Nieddu (22 routes, mostly 6a to 6c), Monte Oddeu (30 routes, mostly 6a to 7a), and Donnenneittu (13 routes, 6a to 8a+).


Are there extreme climbing routes in Supramonte?

Oh yeah, baby! The most notorious wall among top climbers is the south side of the Gorropu canyon. While there are only 10 routes, many of them are so extreme only world-class climbers managed to complete them. Maybe you heard of Hotel Supramonte (8b, 390 m), El viaje de los locos (8b+, 270 m) or Con le ali sotto ai piedi (8c, 200 m)? There are many cool videos on Youtube with outstanding performances. Have a look at the videos of Sasha diGiulian, Silvio Reffo, and the powerful as funny couple Pearson & Civaldini.


Are there trad climbing routes in Supramonte?

Indeed. Many of the largest multi-pitch climbing walls have trad routes too.  The best sectors for trad climbing are Surtana (65 routes, trad from 4c to 6a), Punta Cusidore (30 routes, trad from 6a to 7a) and Punta Carabidda (15 routes, from 4b to 6c).

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