Ulassai & Jerzu
Rock climbing in Ulassai and Jerzu
Ulassai and Jerzu are the most popular climbing destination in Sardinia during the summer. Think of a large collection of crags, a welcoming mountain village and a relaxed international community of climbers. Ulassai is the place where you want to climb and live. Once you’ll experience its vertical walls and breathe in the freedom and simplicity of the town, you’ll never want to leave.
The first climbing sectors that appeared in Jerzu were bolted 30 years ago by climbing pioneers Oviglia, Dessì, Garippa and few more. They started in 1989 with Il Castello and soon bolted Isola del Tesoro and Palazzo d’Inverno, one of the best summer crags in Sardinia. Even though these sectors may look similar from afar, climbing routes are very different and the three alone have today over 240 routes. Palazzo d’inverno goes on shade in the afternoon and still, after 30 years, is a tremendous crag with athletic corners and complex overhangs.
Rock climbing in Ulassai, a life-changing experience!
Ulassai, at 775 meters above sea level, is one of the coolest climbing areas in Sardinia (both in the sense of cold and awesome!). Sarti, Piras, Oviglia, and Mocci started bolting in Ulassai in 2002, giving birth to the best collection of summer climbing crags in Sardinia.
Anyhow, bolting at a large scale in Ulassai began in 2011, when a group of six friends moved here and opened the B&B Nannai Climbin Home. They became the engine that boosted and divulged the climbing in Ulassai to the international community of climbers. The guys at Nannai bolted new crags and welcomed active climbers from all over the world to help to develop the immense potentials of the many walls around the town.
What used to be an old sleeping village is now wide awake with a colorful community of climbers talking many languages and having a great time together. The folks from Ulassai, kind-hearted and smiley, love climbers and are happy to share their culture and food with anyone who shows due respect and gratitude.
What are the best climbing sectors in Ulassai?
The Canyon Sa Tappara is considered by many to be the main crag in Ulassai. It has over 150 routes from beginner level to steep 8 grades. Most importantly, it is a peaceful place where to climb and meet new friends. It is the place we always recommend to lone climbers. It feels home and relaxing, but still, a crag where to send your best projects.
Torre dei Venti is also a popular crag, one of the coldest and accessible for most of us. In effect, there is often the need for a jumper when the mistral wind blows.
Which are the coldest crags in Ulassai in the summer?
The freshest climbing crag in Ulassai is the Cave of Dreams. This is a tiny north-facing canyon with a few routes of all grades. Be sure to find plenty of climbers any day from June to October trying its best overhanging routes. In alternative Palazzo d’Inverno is feasible in the afternoon.
Best crags to send 7 and 8 grades in Ulassai?
If you are looking for awesome 7 and 8 grades walk directly to Su Casteddu, S’assa Bella, or Su Fundu ‘e Simone. Certainly, you will find a multitude of amazing routes to keep you climbing until your fingers and shoes can last.
Are there any multipitch routes in Ulassai or Jerzu?
Not many to be honest. However, there are a couple of multi-pitches at Su Sussiu. Other routes are just extensions and not really intended to be climbed as multi-pitches.
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