La Poltrona

La Poltrona

La Poltrona

Rock climbing at La Poltrona

La Poltrona is one of the oldest and most appreciated climbing sectors in Sardinia. The central wall is an enormous leaning slab, which hosts about a dozen multi-pitch routes. Each multi-pitch has so many extensions and alternatives that one can decide to switch to any route at any moment. In effect sometimes the over-abundance of spits can create confusion, but don’t be discouraged to climb offline as grades are very consistent on parallel lines ???? On the lower right wall, there are many easy and beautiful routes, ideal for an easy day on perfect rock. Think old-style slabs, where balance and precise foot positioning are paramount. La Poltrona is a great school to learn the basics of outdoor rock climbing, especially for those who come from indoor climbing and are looking for a safe place to practice basic outdoor climbing skills. 

History

When reaching Cala Gonone by car one cannot miss the enormous wall of La Poltrona. It is so big and so “in your face” that any climber would drool with excitement when watching it. It was in the 1970s that a couple of climbers from Rome climbed the Lilith spur, creating a trad route with only a few pitons that failed to attract the attention of the community. Only later in 1985 alpinist Heinz Mariacher created the multi-pitch route Deutsch Wall, right on the flattest slab, but this time bolted up with recently developed spits. It was the era of the free-climbing revolution, fuelled by battery-operated drills and sticky rubber shoes. This route is still today one of the most climbed routes at La Poltrona, as well as one of the most feared, not recommended for those who are scared of long runouts. More climbers added bolted routes until in 1989 Gianluca Piras started equipping an enormous quantity of new routes, giving life to a varied and thriving climbing destination. 

Access

At the end of the winding road to Cala Gonone there is a roundabout with the restaurant “La Poltrona” on the left-hand side. Take the third exit (left) and turn twice left to park on the west side of the kart circuit. 

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Sport routes

Vertical walls

Sun all day

5 min approach

Sheltered from Mistral

Winter crag

64 routes in total

01

W la Sardegna

5b

30 m

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Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

02

Milwakee

5a

30 m

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Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

03

Piereddu

5a

30 m

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Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

04

Sperone Lillith

4

160 m

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Multi-pitch PARTIALLY BOLTED

Created by

M.Frezzoni e O.IOrio

Year

2006

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Obligatory

n. of pitches

5

Pitches grades

Pitches lenght

NOTE: This route was established at the end of the 1970s as one of the first multipitches in Sardinia.

05

Sogno eretico

5a

65 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Obligatory

n. of pitches

3

Pitches grades

5a, 4c, 4a

Pitches lenght

6

SN

5b

20 m

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Sport climbingSPORT route

7

SN

5c

20 m

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Sport climbingSPORT route

8

SN

5a

15 m

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Sport climbingSPORT route

9

SN

5c

15 m

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Sport climbingSPORT route

10

Il mercante di Venezia

6a

35 m

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Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Oviglia

Year

1987

Last re-bolted

Equipment

11

Mine vaganti

6c

170 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Ogliengo

Year

2020

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

6b

n. of pitches

6

Pitches grades

6a+, 5b, 6b, 6a+, 6b, 6c

Pitches lenght

40, 20, 30, 30, 30, 30
NOTE: Solo un passo di 6c. Discesa in doppia sulla via

12

S’arva ‘e su beccu

6b+

170 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Ogliengo

Year

2019

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion 316L Marine

Obligatory

6b+

n. of pitches

7

Pitches grades

6a+, 5b, 6b, 4, 6b+, 6a+, 6a+

Pitches lenght

30, 20, 30, 10, 30, 30, 25
NOTE: Al secondo tiro aggirare gli alberi sulla sinistra. Quarto tiro traverso facile a destra. Sesta sosta nascosta alla sinistra dello sperone dietro il ginepro. Discesa in doppia sulla via "Mine vaganti"

13

Pantanella

6b+

10 m

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Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

G.Piras

Year

1991

Last re-bolted

Equipment

14

Acquario

6a+

10 m

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Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Oviglia

Year

1987

Last re-bolted

Equipment

15

Pesciario

6a+

10 m

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Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

G.Piras

Year

1991

Last re-bolted

Equipment

16

Murrudda

6b

15 m

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Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

G.Piras

Year

1991

Last re-bolted

Equipment

17

Cucù

5c

20 m

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Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Piras e Muscas

Year

1989

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316
NOTE: This is the first pitch of 131, 20 metres to the first achoring point

18

131 Tris

7a+

60 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Piras e Bigozzi

Year

1989

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

3

Pitches grades

5c, 6a+, 7a+

Pitches lenght

19

Manu ora voli

7a

50 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Obligatory

n. of pitches

2

Pitches grades

6a, 7a

Pitches lenght

20

Deutsch Wall (Mariacher)

6c

170 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Mariacher & C.

Year

1985

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

6c

n. of pitches

6

Pitches grades

5c, 5c, 6c, 6a, 6b, 6b+

Pitches lenght

40, 20, 50, 30, 20, 20
NOTE: One of the most famous routes in Cala Gonone. Particularly worthy for being the first bolted multipitch in Sardinia. The fourth pitch was bolted by Pibiri, the fifth and sixth by Oviglia & Mocci in 2005

21

Marta la gallina

5a

35 m

View Route or Add Performance
Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Pibiri

Year

1992

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

22

Il mio amico Enzo

6b

65 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Pibiri e Soro

Year

1991

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

6a

n. of pitches

2

Pitches grades

6b, 6a

Pitches lenght

50, 50

23

Alamut

7a

25 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Obligatory

n. of pitches

1

Pitches grades

7a

Pitches lenght

24

Ischirtiorè

6c+

110 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Fancello

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Obligatory

6c+

n. of pitches

3

Pitches grades

5c, 5a, 6c+

Pitches lenght

40, 20, 45
NOTE: First pitch of "Deutsch Wall", then right on the first pitch of "Il Poltrone", and finally left on a third pitch.

25

Il poltrone

6c

100 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Mariacher & C.

Year

1985

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

6c

n. of pitches

4

Pitches grades

5c, 5a, 6c, 6b+

Pitches lenght

40, 20, 20, 20
NOTE: First pitch of "Deutsch Wall", 1st lower-off go right on a easy slab. 2nd lower-off has 3 options, take the central one. 3rd lower-off right

26

Akondippu

6c

55 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Obligatory

n. of pitches

1

Pitches grades

6c

Pitches lenght

27

Atlantide

6b+

25 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Obligatory

n. of pitches

1

Pitches grades

6b+

Pitches lenght

28

Carota impossibile

5c

35 m

View Route or Add Performance
Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

29

Enrico la talpa

7a+

140 m

View Route or Add Performance
Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Obligatory

n. of pitches

4

Pitches grades

5b, 5c, 7a+, 5a

Pitches lenght

30

Pitticcheddu meu

6c

40 m

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Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Minetto

Year

2007

Last re-bolted

Equipment

31

India

6a

120 m

View Route or Add Performance
Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Obligatory

n. of pitches

3

Pitches grades

5b, 6a, 5c

Pitches lenght

32

A su mundu ‘cca ba locu

6a+

40 m

View Route or Add Performance
Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Obligatory

n. of pitches

2

Pitches grades

6a+, 6a+

Pitches lenght

33

Mahatma

6a

35 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Obligatory

n. of pitches

1

Pitches grades

6a

Pitches lenght

34

La poltrona del gatto

6a

30 m

View Route or Add Performance
Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Pibiri

Year

2004

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Obligatory

n. of pitches

1

Pitches grades

6a

Pitches lenght

35

Quaggiù quacuno di ama

6a+

40 m

View Route or Add Performance
Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

36

Otto e Barnelli

6a

110 m

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Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Year

1996

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

4

Pitches grades

6a, 6a, 5b, 5a

Pitches lenght

37

SN

5b

40 m

View Route or Add Performance
Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Obligatory

n. of pitches

2

Pitches grades

5b, 5a

Pitches lenght

38

Grillotalpa andino

6b

70 m

View Route or Add Performance
Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Piras e Bigozzi

Year

1989

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

6a+

n. of pitches

2

Pitches grades

6b, 6a

Pitches lenght

30, 40

39

Banzai

6a+

25 m

View Route or Add Performance
Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

40

Diretta al Mallos

6b

20 m

View Route or Add Performance
Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

41

Sinofila

6a+

60 m

View Route or Add Performance
Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Obligatory

n. of pitches

2

Pitches grades

6a+, 5c

Pitches lenght

42

I wanna hold your hand

6b

55 m

View Route or Add Performance
Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Obligatory

n. of pitches

2

Pitches grades

6b, 5c

Pitches lenght

43

L’eremita

6a

50 m

View Route or Add Performance
Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Obligatory

n. of pitches

2

Pitches grades

6a, 5b

Pitches lenght

44

Ciao Alex

6a

20 m

View Route or Add Performance
Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

45

Storie appese

6b

20 m

View Route or Add Performance
Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

46

Porceddu elettronico

6c

15 m

View Route or Add Performance
Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

47

Dolcenera

6a+

30 m

View Route or Add Performance
Sport climbingSPORT route

48

Via dei tedeschi

5c

40 m

View Route or Add Performance
Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Obligatory

n. of pitches

2

Pitches grades

5c, 5c

Pitches lenght

49

Uno due tre sole!

5c

35 m

View Route or Add Performance
Sport climbingSPORT route

50

Succhiandiamo

5c

50 m

View Route or Add Performance
Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Obligatory

n. of pitches

2

Pitches grades

5b, 5c

Pitches lenght

51

Cime tempestive

5c

20 m

View Route or Add Performance
Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Conca

Year

2001

Last re-bolted

Equipment

52

Cacao Meravigliao

5c

37 m

View Route or Add Performance
Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

53

Indietro tutta

5c

37 m

View Route or Add Performance
Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

54

Sono forse io?

5b

30 m

View Route or Add Performance
Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

55

Hey jude

5c

30 m

View Route or Add Performance
Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Conca

Year

1988

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

56

Dopo il pesce

5b

25 m

View Route or Add Performance
Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

57

Guendalina

5a

25 m

View Route or Add Performance
Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

58

Chiquita

5a

25 m

View Route or Add Performance
Sport climbingSPORT route

59

Pali e dispali

5a

15 m

View Route or Add Performance
Sport climbingSPORT route

60

Sogno

5a

15 m

View Route or Add Performance
Sport climbingSPORT route

61

Capri

5a

15 m

View Route or Add Performance
Sport climbingSPORT route

62

Piccolo stronzo

5a

15 m

View Route or Add Performance
Sport climbingSPORT route

63

SN

5a

15 m

View Route or Add Performance
Sport climbingSPORT route

64

Karo-X

4

15 m

View Route or Add Performance
Sport climbingSPORT route
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