Ferry is one of the most popular climbing sectors in Cala Gonone. It is located right above the tiny and beautiful cove Cala Fuili, joining easy climbing routes, solid rock, and a wonderful sea. What is described as “Ferry” on this page is actually the merging of three different climbing sectors. By looking at the image of the sector you can easily spot them. The first sector is located on the stairs walking down to the beach and is the easiest of all. It is the ideal wall for children and beginners. As most people climb on top-rope, anchors get worn in no time. Please always add one of your carabiners if you set the route to climb on top-rope. We at Climbing Sardinia have recently changed some of the anchors, please be careful and let us know if something looks worn out. The second sector is located at the bottom of the stairs, just 10 meters to the left. It is the oldest and hardest sector of the three. Many of the 6a and 6b have become polished and sometimes hard at the start (where most people try over and over). We recommend spotting the climber until has clipped in the first quickdraw. The third and last sector is located further along the wall, walking up the path for 30 meters. It is the newest and probably most beautiful of the three. It has the most panoramic and articulated routes and the rock is the grippiest of all.

History

The first routes at Ferry were bolted as early as 1989. It was the most accessible wall to have solid rock and to be so close to the sea. If was bolted in a time when bolting climbing routes was the most freakish and innovative sport a person could do. Oviglia bolted the first part of the crag to be specifically something for beginners. Many other climbers bolted up additional routes, filling up what is now a complete wall. Although more routes could be squeezed in between the existing ones, that would only mess up what is currently perfect.

Best Season

Although it is possible to climb in any season, the summertime is surely the worse. The easiest routes by the stairs are in the shade in the early morning and that can be a good solution for families with kids. In the summer the seaside of the crag goes in the shade at about 5 pm. We recommend not climbing here before it goes on shade, as there is no wind and it gets as hot as a furnace.

Access

You can walk from Cala Gonone, or drive to the end of the road to Cala Fuili. Keep in mind that the local police fines cars that are parked inside the lines of the road. Park your car over the curb, outside the road, and do not try to reach the end of the road as there is no way to reverse.