The climbing wall Amelia is the northern cliff on the renowned beach Fuili, a few kilometers south of the center of Cala Gonone. It is one of the easiest and most appreciated sectors in the Fuili gorge, and many of its routes were re-bolted in Titanium in 2020. When you arrive at the beach, and you’re facing the sea, it is the furthest wall to the left, the one above the water. The average grade in Amelia is 6a / 6b, the rock is smooth and in case of Scirocco wind (the hot and humid wind from south-east) it can be greasy and impossible to climb. A quick way to understand if it possible to climb Amelia or other such sea-facing crags is by looking at the horizon over the sea. If the line that separates the sea from the sky is sharp and clear, it is fine to climb. If the line is blurry or worse, the sea merges with the sky, you shall choose a more inland location.

History

The climbing routes in Amelia were bolted by many different climbers during the course of the last 30 years. Climbers did not initially conceive it as a proper sector but rather a continuation of the gorge as a big container of routes. That is why it was known with many names, as each bolter called it a different way.

Best season

Just like many other climbing sectors in Cala Gonone, winter is the best season. During the summer it goes on shade after 5pm, but the rock is still hot from all the heat received during the day.

Access

Your can walk from Cala Gonone, or drive to the end of the road to Cala Fuili. Keep in mind that the local police fines cars that are parked inside the lines of the road. Thus try parking outside the road, and do not try to reach the end of the road as there is no way to reverse.