Sole incantatore
Sector: Cala Goloritzè
Position
Grade
Height
Type
5
6c
140 m
Multi-Pitch - BOLTED
Bolted by: Oviglia
Year: 1995
Re-bolted: 2013
Equipment:
Notes:
questa div sarà nascosta
ALL PREVIOUS ASCENTS
Note: Really beautiful rope solo, only one polished movement avoce some rocks in the last pitch that makes me uncomfortable
Note: First two pitches are great and really on the lower end of their grades. First pithc is really just a warm up and you get to this comfortable belays station on a ledge. 3rd pitch is more like a long 6b+. It has a couple of harder moves right at the start than it gradually eases out but you also get more tired and have a bit of rope drag. There is also quite some distance between quickdraws, 2.3m or so. Then you go into a strong 6c on small holds. We bailed as considered it too hard and were short on time. 65m rope is the absolute minimum but bring a 70 pelase. The experience and the view is fantastic.
Note: Try avoid climbing on a weekend , it was an absolute circus on the route. Beautiful climb. Polish is not really an issue and we climbed in Scirocco conditions. P3 is a hard 6b+ , beautiful. 6c pitch only has a boulder move then relatively easy to the top. What a tower!!
Note: Second ascent after 18 years. Pretty polished now...so...I guess...harder than 6c.
Note: Ruton, los dos primeros largos se empalman guay, la placa del 3 largo hay que pegar un buen apretón y andar fino.
Note: Linked first two pitches (5c and 6b) super fun. Third pitch, 6b+ incredibly sandbagged. Unless you’re really good at fingercracks.. heady climb with tough beta! Spooked us for the next pitch, which looked like very vertical slab. We couldn’t see the next pitch, the 6c and assumed it might also be sandbagged. We bailed. But it was very scenic. 70m rope descent was fine.
