Il richiamo del mare
Sector: Pedra Longa
Position
Grade
Height
Type
04
6a+
250 m
Multi-Pitch - BOLTED
Bolted by: D. Bono e S.Perrone
Year: 2029
Re-bolted:
Equipment:
Notes: Takes a 20 metres abseil to reach the base. After that 2 easy but poorly bolted traverses to reach the spur
questa div sarà nascosta
ALL PREVIOUS ASCENTS
Note: Fun climbing. Perfectly bolted. Amazing views. The traverse pitches are well bolted. The abseil is 30 m long from a single bolt with a quicklink - watch out for loose rock.
Note: Via d'avventura! La calata iniziale può essere fatta con una corda mezza ma ci si arriva al pelo. Due semplici traversi e poi la via vera e propria. Roccia tagliente, alcuni sassi instabili nelle lunghezze centrali. Singolo delicato sull'ultimo tiro. Più bella e logica di marinaio di foresta a mio parere, nonostante l'attacco scomodo.
Note: We were in a hurry so our topo research was poor so we abseiled from an old white sling attached to a bush and it was really dangerous there (loose rocks, dangerous abseil with swing possibility). There should be a chain in two bolts hidden somewhere, but we weren't able to find it. After that we also accidentally started to climb the Cromosomi Corsari due to not visible bolts from traverse (you need to really climb horizontally during the first two traverse pitches, if you see the Cromosomi Corsari bolts going right & up just traverse to the right and look for the traversing bolts). After finding that out we returned and finally started to climb the correct route. After that we enjoyed really nice climbing on the sharpest limestone I ever climbed on. Some pitches can be joined (I think we joined the first two after the traverse, and also the last two 5c+, 6a+). The 6a+ is more like proper 6b. Also there are some loose blocks in the L3-L5 so be careful.
Note: Incredible route by the sea, very abrasive rock, 2 horizontal pitches and then constant vertical climbing. The 6a+ is pretty hard and exposed. Descent walking a bit and then a 30m abseil.
