Monte Gennirco

Monte Gennirco
Area: Baunei

Monte Gennirco

Rock climbing at Monte Gennirco

The vertical walls of Monte Gennirco (sometimes spelt Ginnircu) are immersed in a relatively remote and wild environment, making it the perfect backdrop for a real adventure.  Imagine climbing an awesome vertical wall with an immense view over Pedra Longa, the coast of Arbatax and the immensity of the sea. The view is inspiring and the routes are engaging. If you’d climb at Monte Gennirco you would never forget the wholeness of this experience!

The routes are never too easy, considering that Spleen is the most accessible of all. The best season to climb this south-facing wall is the winter, from December to February, as sunny days can still be sweltering. 

History

This massive wall was discovered in 1981 by the hard-core duet Marco Bernardi and Alessandro Gogna, who climbed the route Sintomi Primordiali. To date, it is still one of the hardest Trad routes in Sardinia. During the following years, other climbers from Bologna equipped shorter routes abseiling from the top, driven by the new trends that came from the Verdon gorge. Unfortunately, these climbers refused to publish information about their routes, keeping Monte Gennirco as their secret climbing garden. They even released photos and descriptions of the routes in a national climbing magazine but omitted the location. It was only at the end of the 90s that news leaked and the routes became known. 

Access

It is advisable to approach this abseil from the top, as reaching the base from Pedra longa is really hard. It takes about 20 minutes to drive on a dirt road leading to a water reservoir located on the west slope of Mount Gennirco. Download and follow the GPS track to the top of the route (30 minutes walk + 1-hour abseil). 

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Multipitch bolted

Vertical walls

Sun all day

40 min approach

Sheltered from Mistral

Winter crag


14 routes in total
Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Giorgi e Lecis

Year

1997

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

6b+

n. of pitches

4

Pitches grades

7a+, 7b, 6c+, 6c+

Pitches lenght

30, 30, 30, 30
NOTE: Completely bolted. Necessary 12 quick-draws and 2x 50 m ropes

Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Palma, Della Bordella e Soldarini

Year

2005

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

7a+

n. of pitches

10

Pitches grades

6b, 7b+, 6b, 6c, 6a+, 7a+, 7c, 7b, 7a, 6c

Pitches lenght

NOTE: Completely bolted. Necessary 12 quick-draws and 2x 50 m ropes, some Friends may be beneficial (up to 2 BD)

Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Palma, Della Bordella e Soldarini

Year

2007

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

7b

n. of pitches

9

Pitches grades

6b, 8a+, 7b+, 6a, 7c+, 7c+, 7c, 6c, 6c

Pitches lenght


Multi-pitch PARTIALLY BOLTED

Created by

Palma, Della Bordella e Soldarini

Year

2006

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

7a

n. of pitches

8

Pitches grades

7c, 7a+, 6b, ledge, 7c, 7a+, 7a, 7c, 6a

Pitches lenght

NOTE: Awesome route on long tufas. It is possible to access it from the top (abseiling) or walking from Pedra Longa. It requires a small set of Friends and cordalette as the third pitch has no bolts. After that you get to a large ledge with vegetation, move 30 meters to the left and continue on the 7c pitch.

Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Nadali e De Leonardis

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

2

Pitches grades

6a+, 7a

Pitches lenght

25, 25
NOTE: Same start as Aguaplano

Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Stasi

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

2

Pitches grades

6a+, 6b+

Pitches lenght

25, 25

Sport climbingSPORT route

Created by

Nadali

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment


Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Oviglia

Year

1994

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

4

Pitches grades

7a, 7a+, 7a+, 6a

Pitches lenght

30, 30, 15, 15

Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Nadali e Zanichelli

Year

1986

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

6c

n. of pitches

9

Pitches grades

7a+, 6c, 6b, 6c+, 3, 7a+, 6c, 7a, 7a, 6c, 6c+

Pitches lenght

NOTE: Access it from the top, parking at Idileddu and abseiling to the base. It is well bolted and only needs 12 quickdraws and 2x 50 m ropes

Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

M.Bernardi e A.Gogna

Year

1981

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

6b

n. of pitches

10

Pitches grades

6a, 6c, 6c, 3, 6a+, 6b, 6b+, 6a, 6a, 3

Pitches lenght

45, 30, 48, 10, 35, 48, 48, 30, 25, 25
NOTE: This is one of the oldest and hardest trad routes in Sardinia, and not many climbers dared repeating it. Access it from the top, parking at Idileddu and abseiling the route Spleen to the base.It follows a series of dihedrons and then vertical slabs. It requires a full set of Friends, nuts, cordalette and 2 x 50 m ropes

Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Bac e Macca

Year

2019

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

8

Pitches grades

7a+, 7b, 7a, 7a, 6c+, 7b, 6a+, 6c

Pitches lenght

35, 35, 35, 55, 25, 35, 20, 35
NOTE: Access it from the top, parking at Idileddu and abseiling from the last pitch of the route SPLEEN down to the base. It needs 14 quickdraws and 2 x 60 m ropes. The route starts 5 meters right of Spleen

Bolted multi-pitchMulti-pitch BOLTED

Created by

G.Bernardi, M.Torricelli, M.Davoli

Year

1996

Last re-bolted

2015

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

9

Pitches grades

6c, 7b, 6a+, 6b, 6b+, 7a, 7b+, 6c, 6c+

Pitches lenght

30, 40, 20, 30, 35, 25, 35, 40, 15
NOTE: Access it from the top, parking at Idileddu and abseiling to the base. Fully re-bolted end extended in 2015. It requires 13 quickdraws and 2 x 60 m ropes.

Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

Oviglia e Poddesu

Year

1985

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

n. of pitches

8

Pitches grades

5a, 6a, 6a, 6a, 3, 5b, 5a, 5b

Pitches lenght

NOTE: This is just the upper half of the followng routes, starting from the large ledge to the top.

Multi-pitch TRAD

Created by

De Col , Giorgi, A.Gogna e Zanichelli

Year

1986

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Obligatory

6a

n. of pitches

11

Pitches grades

6a+, 5c, 6a+, 5c, 6a+, large ledge, 5a, 6a, 6a, small ledge, 6a, 5b

Pitches lenght

NOTE: Access from Pedra Longa, walking the path that leads to Fenile. Then climb up the steep scree to the base of the crag. The route begins on the right hand side of an enormous ivy plant. It requires a full set of Friends, nuts, cordalette, pitons and 2 x 50 m ropes

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