Rock Climbing @ Arcadio

Arcadio is considered by most climbers one of the best climbing sectors in Cala Gonone. It has perfect limestone walls, with either vertical grippy slabs or gently overhanging tufas. It is also located a few minutes from the road, making it a winning location.

Arcadio is kind of divided into four parts, each with its individual climbing style. Starting from the road, there is a raised ledge on the right, reachable via a fixed rope. Over here there are six routes ranging from 6a+ to 6c. It is not the best part, as that’s coming next. That’s the overhanging orange wall, the one you can’t miss when descending the cemented road. It has the best 7 grades in Arcadio, including Hakuna Matata (6c),  Brod Oy (7a+) and Un Panino e Via (7c). Continuing along the wall, the upper part of Arcadio hosts more interesting 7 grades. Be careful of the bolting here, as some routes still need to be rebolted. Around the corner, there is the last part of the crag, with a bunch of new routes bolted in 2022 by M.Ogliengo and other easy routes.

History

The climbing sector Arcadio was first discovered by unknown climbers, back in 1993. From then it took almost 10 years before “locals” started adding new routes. The “locals” were (obviously) Cagliari-based Oviglia and Lecis who bolted massively from 2001, adding almost 30 routes in less than 3 years. Eugenio Pinotti was the author of the easy and most accessible routes in Arcadio, elected as saint protector of climbers’ girlfriends ????

Best Season

The lower wall in Arcadio faces west, while the upper wall faces south. That means that in the summer it reaches boiling temperature! Avoid climbing from May to October, unless it is a cloudy and cold day.

Access

On the cemented road below the crag, there is space for two cars if well parked. If those parking spaces are taken it is best to drive uphill and park on the second hairpin turn, by the upper crag “Soledad”

Some of the routes in the upper part are oxidated and dangerous. Please pay attention to the conditions of the bolts.