SPQR

SPQR

Sector: Monte Chessaruia

Position
Grade
Height
Type
16
4
400 m
Multi Pitch - PARTIALLY BOLTED

Bolted by:
Year:
Re-bolted:
Equipment:
Notes:

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ALL PREVIOUS ASCENTS

27 May, 2025
★★★

14 April, 2013

20 March, 2025
Note: Solo first couple pitches and roped for the right side crack on the third pitch (next to the bolted line, felt hard to do in approach shoes. Looks more like 5a or so.) Then similar the rest 4 or so pitches to the top. Descent the left side drainage from the top following cairns and a faint trail down to the dirt road.

22 October, 2024
★★★
Note: I would call it more of a 'partially bolted' and less of a trad. Hardest places are well bolted, felt more than difficulty 4. Didn't understand the descent way from other commenters, didn't find any abseil anchors, followed the cairns after summit, scrambled down to west of the ridge, continued to reach sport climbing crag and then to the beginning of SPQR. Was okay way but not very civilized. Rocks, bushes, scrambling. Good that we still had daylight for finding the way.

12 October, 2024
★★★★
Note: Fun climb, but it talks only reaches grade 4 during a few short passages. We mostly climbed with a shortened rope. To descend, use the anchor visible about 10m to the right from the top. A double 50m rope will just about get you down to the ground. From there, scramble back down to the dirt road.

8 April, 2024
★★
Note: A good adventure outing to give feet a break from climbing shoes. Not sustained - maybe three grade 4 steps in the climb. After 60m, we put 30m of rope in pack and continued. Shorter pitches had less rope drag. After 8 x 30m pitches we put the rope away and hiked/scrambled to the true summit. Then followed cairns to the notch behind and descended east to regain the crag trail. Fatmap app has the approach/descent trail clearly marked and easy to follow. I recommend 30m rope, 3-5 cams, 3-5 stoppers, 4 QuickDraws, 4 slings. I think this ridge and its three neighbors may make for excellent rest day activities, but not necessarily for multi-pitch objective days.

17 May, 2023
★★★★★
Note: Super rock quality! I enjoyed the full climb. Some bolts in the route, especially in the beginning. First belay is bolted after that all belays have to be build either on stone pillars, with mobile gear, or on trees. I took about 10 slings, a set of Cams, and a set of Nuts. I needed nearly everything (mainly, due to long pitches and needing to build belays, wo you can get away with taking less gear). Descent by rappelling from a bolted top of a sport route about 30m to the right (east) of the top. Twin 60m ropes should allow rappelling in one go, with anything shorter you need to use a intermediate belay (bolted as well, but with a chain).

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