Rock climbing in Iglesiente
The climbing sectors in Iglesiente are in the most remote and fascinating locations in Sardinia. Iglesiente is a place so distant from our daily lives, where you could get lost and would love to stay forever.
The area Iglesiente includes the sea cliffs near Buggerru, the mountains of Marganai, and the trad routes on Carloforte island.
Climbing near the sea
Starting from the seaside, we have the cliffs in Masua, which include Castello dell’Iride and Porto Flavia. In total, the high walls face the sea stack Pan di Zucchero has over 100 climbing routes, including 25 multi-pitches. Climb in the afternoon and you’ll fall in love with the red sunset over the sea.
Moving north on the coast we reach the sea cliff Pranu Sartu and the canyon Gutturu Cardaxiu. The canyon has eight sectors, including the magnificent Istentales and Sardus Pater. Although the road stops before the first sector, reaching the others is fairly easy and with very little vertical gain.
A few more kilometers to the north is the town of Buggerru. The old mining center is surrounded by mineral-rich mountains and is burdened with a turbulent history of labor exploitation and uprisings. Near Buggerru is the canyon San Nicolò, with five sectors and a couple of pleasant multi-pitches. Above all, one crag over the coast of Buggerru deserves a special note. Capo Pecora is a little trad excellence on the west coast. It is a short but long sea cliff, the only one on the whole west coast that’s made of granite.
Away from the coast, in the mountains that separate Domusnovas from Fluminimaggiore is the abandoned mining village Arenas. Isolated from the rest of the world, Arenas hosts a bunch of vertical limestone walls, bolted with long and challenging routes. The most popular climbing sectors here are Punta Pilocca and Amante Stegata, having over 130 climbing routes in total.
When did climbing in Iglesiente start?
The first climbing sectors bolted in Iglesiente was probably Castello dell’Iride (1984), soon followed by Punta Pilocca. Oviglia developed both walls, in collaboration with Liggi, Concas, Lecis, and a few other keen bolters. From the nineties also Bessone and Piras helped developing many climbing sectors, adding dozens of new climbing problems.
Where can I climb in Iglesiente during the summer?
The best summer climbing sectors in Iglesiente are the ones inside the canyon Gutturu Cardaxiu. As the shade arrives in the early afternoon, the sector Istentales cools down and climbing becomes really pleasant. Same for Sardus Pater and Banana Republic. Also Monte Onixeddu is fresh and pleasant in the morning.
Do not attempt climbing Castello dell’Iride in the summer. Although the shade arrives after 4 pm, the rock is so hot that emanates heat.
Where are the best multi-pitches in Iglesiente?
The best multi-pitches in Iglesiente are probably the ones by the sea. There are plenty of fantastic routes in Porto Flavia and Pranu Sartu. Anyhow, all the bolted routes have serious oxidation problems. Please check if and when the routes were re-bolted and avoid climbing on what is visibly rusty. Climbing with friends and nuts may be a wiser choice.
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